Question: Marilyn Matern in Newtown, CT about Lily Leaf Beetle

Can you tell me the best remedy of ridding my lilies of the red lily beetle.

They have destroyed several of my beautiful lilies.

Please advise. 

Answer:

The Lily Leaf Beetle arrived here in the US by accident with flowering bulbs and has moved into home gardens all over the east coast. The first confirmed lily leaf beetle in Connecticut was in August of 2001. 

The Lily Leaf Beetle is a rather beautiful insect, bright red with black legs and head, 1/4 to 3/8- inches long and will make a squeaky sound if lightly squeezed. Unfortunately, once the adults are spotted much of the damage has already taken place because the larvae is what does most of the damage to plants. This beetle is known to destroy whole plantings in just one season and will also dine on other favorite Lilies and plants such as fritillaria, bittersweet, nicotiana as well as the potato. Adult females can lay 450 eggs in one season on the underside of the host plants. The larvae looks like orange/yellow slugs with black heads and carry excrement on their backs. These voracious eaters will chew through leaves, stems and flowers and pupate in the soil.

Treating the problem should be done quickly. I do not recommend trying to save any of the plants that have been affected as this can spread the problem. Hand picking can be done by dropping larvae and leaves with the orange eggs on the underside into a bucket of soapy water treated with neem, but this is not for the faint hearted. Treat the area with Bioneem every five to seven days after spotting the larvae, which can be found at a local nursery. This will repel the adult beetle and kill the larvae. In the fall, make sure all debris is cleared away from this area after it has been treated and keep a close eye on the garden next spring for any emerging adults.

**It is important to report an infestation of the Lily Leaf Beetle to your local Cooperative Extension Service so this pest can be tracked. They will also be happy to give you more information about the Lily Leaf Beetle. TPW

Question: From Debra Parker in Ridgefield, CT about growing herbs

I can't seem to grow lemon verbena -- the leaves always fall off.  I am not sure how much water or care they want.  I am growing my herbs in med. size pots in my windows with full sun most of the day.  I have the same problems with growing mint and thyme.  Thanks for your advice.

Answer:

A windowsill herb garden is a great way to keep fresh herbs on hand and their fragrant leaves are wonderful.

  Most herbs do require a full day of sun (four to six hours per day) to grow properly.  If the leaves are turning yellow/black and falling off, overwatering is most likely the problem. Most herbs like soil on the dry side. Water lightly only when the soil is dry to the touch, especially if the container is much larger than the growing plant because it holds more water in the soil. If there is a saucer under the pot, check to see if there is water collecting at this point causing the soil to sit and become soggy. Herbs resent being wet all of the time and roots will quickly start to rot. Thyme should be treated in this same manner.

  Mint on the other hand will grow in just about any type of soil and may become invasive if introduced in an outdoor garden. Container grown mint does require full sun and regular watering. If the mint is planted in the same container with the other two herbs, the root systems may be taking over and stressing the verbena and thyme. I recommend planting mint in a separate container. TPW


Question: From Noel McCarry in Danbury, CT

I enjoy your column which I read in the Danbury News-Times. Was wondering if you could answer three
When those tall Asiatic lilies lose their flowers, am I supposed to cut back the seedy parts where flowers fell from? 
Also my large dicentra (bleeding hearts) look kind of yellow now. Should I be feeding them, or do they need to be cut back after the blooming season seems to have passed? 
Any ideas for preventing the insects that seem munch up my hosta plants? 
Much thanks, 

Answer:

When the Lilium flowers fade they can be cut just below the spent flower to prevent seed heads from forming. Try not to cut the stem as this is how the bulbs will rebuild for next years blossoms. Lilies are heavy feeders and I recommend feeding with a time released fertilizer such as null this fall as well as next spring to keep lilies strong and healthy.

The bleeding heart (dicentra specabilis) will start to show that it is through for the season by turning yellow or dying back completely. This can happen late in spring or if the plant is happy mid-summer. It is safe to cut the plant back once this starts to occur to clean up the area. Bleeding Heart will leave a large gap in the perennial garden when this happens. I recommend planting the D. luxuriant (a smaller variety) close by as it will keep it's foliage and flowers well into summer and fill in the area where the larger plant dies back for the season.

Treatment for the Hosta depends on what is eating them. Slugs are munchers of the hosta and may never be seen as they will eat in the evening hours. Hand picking the slugs and dropping them in a bucket of war soapy water will get most of them off of the plants. Sprinkling diatomaceous earth  (pool sand) around plants will also deter slugs and other insects.-TPW

Q: My husband and I planted a pom pom pine in our garden last summer, and it has been doing great until just recently it looks like one by one the pom pom’s are turning brown, they look like they are almost dying.

I’ve been looking online for some help or direction with this but no luck until I found your website, I hope you can help me figure out what is wrong.  I certainly would be upset if I lost this fun tree in my yard.

Thanks,

Tanya

A: Many evergreen shrubs and trees have experienced this problem. This could be the result of the warm temperatures in the fall as well as into the winter months. Once the real cold air arrived, the shrubs and trees are not properly prepared for the sudden drop in temperatures.

  Pine, Rhododendron, Azalea and other shrubs are showing symptoms of winter burn from the very dry and cold winds during the winter months. There is not a lot one can do to fix this except to try and trim the dead portions off and wait for the plant to send out new growth.

   Winter protection should be used for shrubs and trees that are in windy areas over the winter once the temperatures have dropped and the ground has frozen. A burlap wrapping with a straw insulation is good for the smaller new plantings. This will help to keep the plant from experiencing winter wind burn.—TPW

Q: I bought several packages of Dicentra today for a new garden space.  They came packaged separately in plastic bags filled with a dry substance that appeared to be some kind of vegetation.  My question is, what are these plants supposed to look like before planting?

When I opened the package, I could only find a tiny piece with roots attached.  There seemed to be no part of a bulb.  I told my wife it looks like something mummified with roots.  Is this what they are supposed to look like?

Gene W. DeVaux

Greenwood, MO

A: Dicentra luxuriant is a smaller form of Bleeding heart and should bloom for a good part of the growing season. It will withstand a bit more sun and is a great addition to a perennial border.

   I have never seen the dicentra shipped in such small pieces, however, if the root stock seems to be dried out I would suggest calling the company for a replacement. Some mail order catalogs ship this way.

   Plant it anyway about 2" with the root lying on its side in a well drained humus rich soil where it will receive bright shade such as at the edge of a woody area or where there is deciduous shade (trees that lose their leaves in the fall). Over a couple of growing seasons this perennial should spread out. The D. luxuriant pairs well with the larger form of Bleeding heart (especially white) when planted about 12"-16" in front.—TPW

Q: Before my brother passed away, he shared what he called a French peony.  They bloom and I am wondering

If they take any special care and should I dead head them when they are done blooming?  They have such a beautiful

fernlike greenery when they are not blooming.

Every spring it is such a beautiful remembrance of my brother and I would be very upset if I did something wrong.

Is there a place I can find info and are they called something other than French peonies that I might find articles under that name?

Thank you so much.

A: This is an herbaceous Peony which means that the plant will die back to the ground each fall and re-sprout new foliage each year. The root system should be no more than 2"-4" inches below the ground for proper blooming and a fresh layer of compost added to the top of the soil each fall for good nutrition. Dead-heading is perfect after the blossoms have faded to the first or second leaf on the stem to keep the foliage nice for the rest of the season. Full sun is best for flowering but the peony will tolerate a partially shaded garden.

   I love the foliage of this plant also and it is my habit to take most of the buds off just before they open to keep the plant from being flattened by rain and use them indoors in a vase. Selective dis-budding will make the flowers much larger too-)

   Your Brother must be so proud of you knowing this is one of his favorite plants and you are taking such good care of it for him. After a few years, you can share root division in the fall with others that loved him too and to keep his memory strong.--TPW

Hi:

I have a question that I cannot find an answer to

hope you can help:  I was given two wisteria "beans"wisteria "beans"

or "pods".  They are velvety and seem to have two

beans each. I would like to try growing a seedling.

How can I do this ?  Is it even

Possible in normal household conditions?

I would really appreciate your help.

Linda, New Milford, CT

Answer:

  The Wisteria seed pods should dry out over the winter for a good germination rate. The seeds can overwinter outside and grow by themselves in the ground. This is the easiest way to start the Wisteria from seed. Hopefully the seeds were allowed to mature before they were harvested.

  Indoors, each seed will need to be chipped, however, this is not any easy thing to do because the shell is very tough. Use a serated knife and hold the chunky seed between the thumb and first finger. Carefully saw into the seed until you are sure the shell has been breached. Do this to each seed. Soak the seeds in a two-ply paper towel wet with warm water, fold the seeds into the paper towel and place in a zip lock bag and place in a sunny window. The seeds should germinate in seven to ten days and can be transferred into starter pots until the young plants can be grown outdoors. They will grow quickly In full sun. If the Wisteria are started indoors, have larger pots handy to put the transplants in.  Many bonsai are grown indoors in this fashion, however, it can take up to six years to see the plants send out their first blooms.

Q;   The area we are talking about is Brookfield, Connecticut. Growing up, my grandparents in the Bronx had a large Fig tree. They went through the ritual of wrapping and covering it every fall. I will never forget the taste of sweet fruit that came from that tree, which now I can only experience when I purchase them.

    Well, I have lived here since 1980 and I never known anyone that owned a fig tree in the vicinity. Actually, just recently I observed what must be a fig tree on Candlewood Lake Road. It is under wraps  (bucket and all) right now. The house family and tree are all fairly new so it remains to be seen what success they may have. I myself have toyed with the idea for many years.

   A friend gave us cuttings, which I rooted in a flowerpot indoors for about 6 moths. This past spring I planted then in strategic places outside and this fall I wrapped them with just tarpaper. What advise can you give me for success? Realistically what am I looking at.

Sincerely,

Phyllis

Brookfield, CT

A;  Growing a Ficus or fig tree here in Connecticut is not impossible, however, they are a lot of work to overwinter. The Ficus is not hardy to our zone 5-6 climate and special care must be taken to keep them alive and may be why you do not see many of them growing here. Probably the most cold hardy fig would be the Ficus carica or the ‘Brown Turkey’ fig which has beautiful spreading habit. The leaves are large three to five lobed and very exotic looking with a lovely silvery bark.

    There are several ways to keep a fig tree happy and healthy, one of which the way your Grandparents took care to protect their beloved tree from being damaged by our cold northeastern winter. Wrapping in burlap and stuffed with a thick layer of straw for insulation is fine if the fig is planted in an area that is protected from drying winds and heavy snow.

    Another technique is to dig around the root area in late fall after the fig has gone dormant and dig a trench right next to where it is planted. Lay the tree down in the ditch and cover it with soil. This will protect the fig through the winter months from drying winds and breakage from heavy snow. Once there is no threat of frost, stand the tree back up and re-plant.

     A safe way to protect your fig tree would be to keep it planted in a large container and bring it indoors in a cool place for the winter. The leaves will fall off and go dormant during this time so a place out of sight will be fine. Selective pruning will keep the plant the right size for your home and patio. Good Luck.

 Q;  Good Morning, about 10 years ago I bought a Wisteria up at White Flower Farm and planted it on the front corner of my house. It faces dead south and has been trained to grow across the front eaves of the house. What I would like to know is the proper way to prune and time of year. I am sorry I don’t know the variety; it has light purple panicles and grows like a jungle in the summer.

   Can you offer me any suggestions as to the best way to prune and to insure that I will get flowers the following year?

Bill

New Milford, CT

A; Wisteria is a very fast growing vine and should be kept in check by regular pruning. If you are dealing with a Wisteria vine that has overgrown it’s boundaries, a hard pruning can be done right after it blooms in the late spring and a few times during the summer by cutting back the renegade vine.

   Be sure to get the “suckers” from the bottom of the vine as this can drain a lot of needed energy from the rest of the plant during the growing season. Many times they will grow under mulch and crawl along the ground without being seen.

      Stop pruning in the fall so the plant can develop flower buds. Wisteria can be trained into a tree or climb large areas with ease and the springtime blooms are a magical treat. Don’t worry too much about pruning your Wisteria, done at any time of the year it will recover.

Q;  Here is a question no one has been able to answer in the last three to four years. During the spring and summer months, I move my indoor plants outside. The only disadvantage I’ve encountered is when I bring the plants inside in the fall. There are unwanted guests living in the soil such as earwigs, spiders, and those oval dark gray bugs with many small legs (I don’t know their name). Spraying the plant foliage does not work. What do you recommend for ridding these pests who have made their home in the soil?

Cindy

Sherman, CT

A;  Once a houseplant is brought outdoors, the danger of insects is apparent. If your plant is a special or treasured one I would recommend just keeping it indoors for the summer in a healthy place or on a porch. There are a few tricks that I use to get the insects out of the pots before bringing them indoors.

    First, place the potted plants in a neutral area away from plants that have stayed inside, sort of a quarantined area. Let the soil dry out a bit and keep the bottom area open to get the sowbugs and earwigs out of hiding. These insects like dark moist places and the bottom of a pot is a perfect place. Take a plastic bag and put the plant inside of it, (I have a small greenhouse to use just for this purpose), blow air into it so that the plastic is not touching the leaves. A few mothballs in the bag for 24 hours usually will take care of any bugs.

     Since the earwigs and sowbugs are your concern, put a small clay pot with a little bit of grass upside down close to the pot or even under it to keep it off the ground. These bugs will be attracted to a dark moist area and dispose of the pot after the 24 hours have passed. If whiteflies or any other flying insect is a problem, put a piece of double sided tape inside the greenhouse to act as flypaper.

 Q;   We have just cleared a fairly steep (but climbable) hillside, which faces our patio. We would like to plant ground cover that is pleasant to look at, holds back the dirt, smothers weeds and spreads with some speed. The section is about 100 feet wide and about 40 up the hillside. I’d like to rule out the usual and typical green groundcovers like pachysandra. We live in Northwestern Fairfield County Connecticut. A flowering, low plant would be ideal since it is always in our view. Any suggestions would be appreciated.

Jerry

Fairfield, CT

A;   Planting on a hillside can be tricky since erosion and water retention can be a problem for establishing a large planting. If this is a place that will be walked on from time to time, you may want to consider putting shelves or tiers into the embankment.  Since Pachysandra was one of your options, I will assume that the area is in part to full shade.

     Many groundcovers can be beautiful such as the variegated leaves of Lamium (Deadnettle) and bloom in spring with bundles of balloon type flowers of ‘Pink Pewter’, ‘White Nancy’, ‘Purple Dragon’ or yellow ‘Herman’s Pride’. Lamium is also tolerant of poor, dry soils. 

     If you want to really see flowers and foliage, maybe a mass planting of Hemerocallis (Daylilies) will be good and will establish roots quickly to hold the soil. This is not a groundcover, however Hemerocallis do very well on banks and are beautiful through the entire growing season with healthy green foliage and beautiful, large flowers that can be seen from your patio all summer long.

      The H. Stella de Oro will bloom a melon yellow flower all through the season. H. ‘Little Grapette’ is a shorter variety (12 inches), which has beautiful ruffled purple flowers. Daylilies have been bred in some of the most beautiful colors and will bloom in part shady to full sun conditions. --TPW