Annuals vs Perennials

What to plant this spring

   When starting new garden or planning additions to an established one, what is better to use, annuals or perennials? Annuals will bloom for the entire growing season, however, need to be re-planted each year for a successful show.

     Perennials should grow back bigger and better with each growing season. The downside of having only perennials is most will only bloom for two to three weeks a year, which can leave a garden very green at times. With careful planning, a perennial garden can bloom through the entire growing season. Perennials require more maintenance and attention to thrive but well worth the effort over time.

     The structure of a garden will need to be established by perennials. The foundation can be evergreen or deciduous. Perennials will support this function and keep a similarity and  form to the established garden.

Herbaceous and evergreen perennials

     Some perennials will die all the way back to the ground each year (herbaceous) and hibernate under the soil. These perennials are very good for areas that are exposed sites or will go through a lot of punishment over the winter months. Herbaceous Peonies are beautiful, bushy perennials that tuck away to sleep for the winter and come back to fill in the garden each year with their beautiful foliage and sweetly scented flowers.

     Herbaceous perennials can save a garden from being destroyed on very bad winters. Places directly to each side of a front door stoop and around driveways where heavy snow is often plowed and shoveled in large amounts are trouble spots. Windy sites, foot traffic, animals, are some other trouble spots. 

     Evergreen perennials will show themselves through some of the toughest New England weather. Armeria rubra grows green grass-like mound all through the winter and in spring it sends out beautiful spikes of pink globe-like blossoms that last for weeks. This is a wonderful evergreen perennial for the edge of a border planted in clumps of at least three plants.

     Herbaceous and evergreen perennials will need division every two to three years to keep them a manageable and healthy. I do not recommend fertilizing any newly planted perennials for the first year as this may cause problems with the plant establishing a good root system. Get the soil in good shape by adding lots of aged manure, compost and natural additives before planting a new bed.

     Patience is the key to growing perennials, as the first years may not show even one bloom. This is natural and to force the perennial into blooming by giving the plant more nutrients will make the plant weak. During times of stress such as drought and hard winters, the perennial may not live.

Annuals are delightful

    Annuals will complete a life cycle in one growing season. They will bloom through the entire summer with the proper care. Using annuals as solid borders or a planted specimen can sparkle any garden and are wonderful for the homeowner that likes to change the theme and colors each year.

     Annuals have shallow root systems and most need water and fertilizer more often to thrive. Some annuals will re-seed and come back again the following year but are unreliable. Fertilizing regularly will keep annuals healthy and strong for a great performance.

     Shade gardens can stand out by using annuals. A mass planting of Impatiens ‘walleriana’ under the shade of a red maple is most attractive. Theme gardens will sparkle with color such as a patriotic garden filled with red white and blue annuals.

      Annuals can be used in areas that will need to be cleared and out of the way once the fall arrives. Tender bulbs such as the giant leaved Colocasia are wonderful around above ground swimming pools and the plant looks very tropical. Once fall arrives and the pool must be covered, it is a much easier job with nothing in the way around the pool area.

     Crocosmia ‘Lucifer’ has striking red drooping flowers that will attract hummingbirds and butterflies from afar. Gladiolas are an inexpensive and easy addition to a cutting garden. Cut dahlias, gladiolas and fragrant freesia mixed with perennial treats make for a beautiful display on a table. Tender bulbs need to be carefully dug up and stored each fall or can be replanted each year. 

Living together in harmony

    What happens when a perennial garden fails to fill in for reasons that we cannot control? A late frost can damage tender flower buds just as a plant is set to bloom. A wet, cloudy and cool summer can cause the perennials to stop blooming or not at all. Drought will make many perennials go dormant to save themselves. Annuals will come to rescue the day. Pretty pansies love the cool weather. Drought tolerant annuals such as Nasturtium or cleome planted among the perennials will save the garden from looking bare and dreary.

     When a perennial is sadly lost there can be a large gap in the border which annuals come to fill in, if only for a short time. Annuals may be planted all through the growing season but perennials should be planted in the spring or early fall, not suring the heat of the summer months.

     Each year a garden will go through changes with new growth and mature withe seaon. The plant will become larger and take up more space in a border. During this time of growth, a perennial garden can look a bit thin. Planting annuals such as dwarf dahlias, portulaca and cosmos will brighten up the garden while the new perennials are work on establishing a good root system.

     Once the foundation fills in every nook and cranny, annuals will not be needed as much unless the gardener wants to use them as a border to frame out the garden. Empty spaces left by spring flowering bulbs is a good place for annuals to grow in harmony with the perennials. Another way to add annuals into the landscape is by using large containers placed all through the perennial border overflowing with color. In all cases annuals will enhance the perennial border but will not take away from the beauty of the perennial blossoms.

     This spring use your creative sense and think about what kind of time you will have to spend in the garden. Annuals (and container plants) will have lots of color and need to be watered often if there is no rain. An established perennial garden should do well with minimal care.

Winter Thoughts from TPW:

 Edging and Boundaries

  When late winter brings a welcoming thaw, look at the landscape and see how the garden becomes a part of the rest of the yard. Does is flow freely into the grass or is there a barrier built up so that it will define the garden independently from the grasses and trees?

     Edging a garden is a very personal choice. Some prefer to have a soft entry into the lawn while others want the dressed up version to show off their cherished perennial gardens. This is also the time of year when changes can easily be made to the lines by cutting them out with a shovel or edging tool. The perennial garden is still dormant and the border is much easier to see.

     Imagination can be tested with the use of bricks, stones and many other discarded items. Formal granite edges can show one up a walkway safely or short iron fencing will keep feet from intruding into a formal perennial border. Natural resources such as sliced wood discs or pre-made scalloped terra-cotta brick edging will all define the garden and sketch the line from a garden to the lawn area or path. Recycled rubber materials have even been developed to place right on the ground to act as an edge.

      Edges drawn in the soil at a slight curve will help soften the foundation lines of the home. Strait lines for more formal gardens may use iron fencing or other hardscape materials.  Many gardeners prefer a more natural approach to define a shady garden edge with ground covers such as Pachysandra, English Ivy or Vinca vines with their periwinkle flowers in mid spring. The garden will fade out as it meets the lawn area. This kind of effect takes a bit more time to fill in but is less maintenance.

     One of the first chores of early spring is to define the edges of the perennial gardens. Edging can be as simple as digging a shallow ditch and filling in with decorative mulch. Check these lines, define them, clean them up and ready them for another growing season.

     Begin a new garden or extend a new edge to a garden by using a hose, twine or rope and “drawing” a line to a preferred style. Look at the new edge for a day or two before actually digging it out to make sure it feels just right. Many times there is a need to tweak the design for one reason or another before the final decision is made. I prefer using a spade and a hand trowel to dig out garden edges by hand each spring and mid-summer to freshen things up. 

      Just by re-defining edges, the garden looks fresh and new. Dig a 4 to 6 inch deep line and push it into the garden. A hand trowel is used to run across the new edge a few times to smooth out uneven lines left by a spade. Rake out the soil upturned into the garden and clean any rocks or debris left behind. When the finished lines are done it will make the difference between night and day.

     Follow up later in the spring with a fresh layer of mulch or fluff out the old material. Winter tends to compact mulch and loosening it up will help water reach the soil and roots underneath. Be careful when working in the dormant area so as not to pull out the perennial roots.

      Voila! A major improvement has been made to ready your garden for a new season.

Cape Primroses

 A Blooming Jewel for Winter

     Streptocarpus caulescens or cape primrose is a beautiful and unique plant that can be grown indoors on a bright windowsill in winter. This plant will bloom profusely all season long if kept in the proper conditions. It  has oblong, green textured leaves with fine hair that will hang over the side of the pot while a most delightful bonnet-like flower stands on a taller leafless stem. Hybridizers have made these plants into double-petal and two-toned jewels that will cease to amaze one all winter long with its endless energy. Bright pinks like the S. ‘Pink Surprise’ and darker red varieties like the S. ‘Cherry Pie’ with a velvet like 1 ½ inch blooms are there to cheer and take away the winter blahs.

      Dr. Ralph Robinson, Owner of Robs Violets, New York will tell you how beautiful and interesting the Streptocarpus is. This plant is great for the winter and will tolerate cooler temperatures a bit more than it’s cousin, the african violet.  Robinson is a breeder of the world famous ‘Bristol’ series of streps in a rainbow of different colors. Not only does his greenhouse grow the Streptocarpus, they specialize in hybridizing and are well known for their breeding of the ‘Ma’s’ and ‘Rob’s’ series of african violet hybrids. Their website has nice selection of the Bristol series as well as other varieties to choose from at www.robsviolet.com. His plants are shipped in nursery pots and are a very fair price. A collection of 10 plants will run about 30.00 plus shipping and handling.

       To grow these easy to care for plants, use an african violet mix to pot up the plant or make your own loose porous potting mix by blending 2 parts sphagnum peat moss to 1 part vermiculite or perlite with 1 part soil and 1 part clean sand all mixed together. Streps prefer small pots for growing which will encourage more flowering. “Keep soil the moist but not wet or what we call, happy feet” as Dr. Robinson says. Be careful not to let the plant completely dry out as the plant shows stress quickly.  Try not to let the pot sit in water as the plant also resents constant wet conditions and may cause root rot. Streps will do well on a south or southeast-facing window in the winter or a place that receives bright sunlight. 12-14 hours under grow lights are also fine to keep this plant happy and in bloom. In the summer, the plant needs to be out of direct sunlight or the delicate leaves may burn. Cool temperatures don’t seem to bother this plant and it likes a house that keeps the thermostat down and will flower well all through the winter months. Fertilize with an african violet food, peter’s houseplant food or almost any fertilizer for house plants cut down to 1/8^th of its strength. Use this mixture each time the Strep is watered. This will keep the plant fed and in a healthy condition over the winter months. Try not to splatter the leaves with the water mixture or it may cause burn spots on the leaves. If a single leaf gets very large or shows signs of brown edges, cut it off at the base with a sharp blade or shears to prevent bruised leaf edges. This helps to promote flowering and keeps the plant neat and tidy. Cape Primroses may go dormant or stop growing if left to dry completely out. Try not to let the soil become too dry in-between watering.

Forcing bare branches into winter bloom

    Late winter is a great time for pruning branches from the forsythia, weeping willow, cherry and apple and many other early blooming trees for a spectacular arrangement indoors.  Flowering almond (Prunus triloba) branches will bloom indoors with their beautiful delicate pink pom pom blossoms, witch hazel (Hamamelis) may benefit from a little bit of pruning or thinning. The unusual yellow or rusty red flowers will make for an interesting flower arrangement. Bring these branches indoors and watch them grow. Twigs from a Maple bloom with tiny little leaves. If children want to have a go at this great forcing technique, pussy willows will bring their catkins to life just for them. The best branches to force are trees and shrubs that will normally bloom early in the spring such as the crabapple, forsythia and pussy willows. It takes at least six weeks of cold temperatures for the branches to be ready for forcing indoors.

   A warmer daytime temperature is the best time to cut and force branches. Venture outside and find the tree or shrub to prune. Be sure not to cut a shrub too much in one spot so when the spring arrives it won’t be bare on one side. Check each specimen to see if the buds have started swelling, this is a sure sign they are ready to force indoors.

     Picking unusual branches that are crooked, gnarled or spiraled will add more interest to the arrangement. Soak the cut branches in tepid water for about an hour, this will loosen up the buds that have been closed tightly for the winter and prepare them to open.

     Use a vase that will keep the arrangement from toppling over. Remember that at first the arrangement will only look like a bunch of sticks in a jar so use an interesting vase or container such as a sugaring bucket.  If you have extra branches, bundle them up and put the bundle in a cool, protected place with a bucket of water such as a garage or shed. They will keep for at least a week or longer if stored properly.

      Fill the vase with room temperature water and arrange your branches to show off your artistic side. Place in a cool bright area out of direct sun and be patient.  Both the experienced gardener and children will have fun watching the tiny buds open into small leaves, cherry blossoms or fuzzy little catkins.

     Fruit blossoms like the flowering crabapple (Malus florbunda) will bloom for at least a week if they are kept in a cool area. Take notes on which branches looked best for next harvest of interesting branches.. Try branches that you would not think can be beautiful and you may be surprised.

  Late february is the best time to choose branches from the forsythia, spring blooming witch hazel, white forsythia, pussy willow, wild cherry, maple, birch, bittersweet and weeping willow. Wait until march for fruit trees, redbud and spirea because the buds are not quite ready until a bit later in the winter. 

Monarda is Mint

(Danbury News Times)

Monarda, commonly known as Bee Balm, is a unique and versatile perennial for a home gardener. Its blooms attract hummingbirds into the yard and will introduce height, bright colors. It is also a good companion to many of our hardiest border plants. It is a member of the mint family which can be seen by the square stem and a fragrance very apparent once the foliage is touched or cut.

Monarda is native to North America in woodland areas and dry prairies. The Oswego Indians demonstrated to the early immigrants how to use bee balm in a tea to help with fever, chills and inflammations (Oswego tea). Some tribes used a cold extract to help with back aches and others to get the heart rate moving. Gardener’s have discovered that the flowers and leaves are used by many herbalists as an infused tea for many ailments or for just the wonderful flavor when combined with lemon. The dried flowers and leaves can also be used in fragrant sachets.

Bee balm flowers are very different from most perennials. The blooms have tubular petals that poke out from the center of every side forming a firework like display. Nice foliage takes on the tinge of the flower colors except for the white variety which has much brighter green foliage. The early blossoms look as if they are wearing a silly court jester costume. Many times Monarda will send out a second bloom right on top of the original flower and is marvelous with this two-story touch.

Monarda holds blossoms which will keep bright color in the border for long periods of time. Smaller varieties such as the M. didyma have bright white 2-inch blossoms with numerous flowers and can withstand some of the toughest dry conditions. It is a wonderful companion to the purple coneflower which has not failed to look sterling each year. M. ‘Raspberry Wine’ has larger 4-inch flower heads and is outrageous in large clumps. Raspberry boasts 4 to 5 inch flower heads that are beautiful paired up with the black eyed, bright yellow flowers of the Rudebeckia. The daring red M. ‘Cambridge Scarlet’ mixed into a border adds height and very bright color.

Growing Tips

Monarda is tolerant of many conditions. Foliage is darker and richer if planted in full sun, a good humus-rich soil that is well drained. Once the perennial is established, it is very drought resistant and does not need to be fertilized to thrive. Plant this perennial in full sun or a partially shaded area. It will look wonderful all alone in large clumps or mixed into a perennial border. This plant can tend to spread from place to place with a wandering root system and may need to be curbed each year but well worth the effort to keep it in place.

Monarda is sold early in the spring as a root division which can be planted 3 to 4 inches below the soil level. Potted plants are sold locally in many garden centers in a variety of colors. The purple M. ‘Parienacht’ is beautiful with the light lavender blossoms; however, I have found that they are short lived in many gardens here in Connecticut.      

Readers have written to say that it will just disappear after one or two seasons. I have replaced the purple in my gardens several times and found it may not be as hardy as the others. There is also a M. ‘Croftway Pink’ and M. ‘Fishes’ which are on the pink/purple side that are known to be hardy to the Northeast.

As long as the bee balm gets 4 hours or more of sun per day, it will flower just as well. Too much shade will cause tall plants that may fall over in a hard rain. Powdery mildew can become an unsightly problem if the plants are too wet or if there is a lot of rain for the season. This can be an esthetic problem but will not hurt the plant as it will recover the following year. Otherwise Monarda is one very tough perennial for the home garden.

Monarda Herb Tea

Gather flowers and leaves while in bloom. Tie up bundles and place in a paper bag to let dry in a well ventilated area. (Be sure that you have not used pesticides on plants that you want to use in tea.)

Use a tea ball to hold the leaves or just place flowers and leave in a small teapot and strain before serving. Tea can also be made into iced tea with a sprig of mint leaves added for a nice touch.

Steep one teaspoon (1tsp) of dried tops or leaves per one cup of water. Add lemon and sweetener to taste. Enjoy not only your beautiful bee balm in the garden but a spot of iced tea too!

A Jewel in the Woods

(Danbury News Times) 

Pretty wild Impatiens grow in many parts of Connecticut woodlands. They sprawl along creek beds and can find a home just about anywhere in landscapes. These common plants are known as Jewelweed or Touch-me-Not. Beautiful buttery yellow blossoms of the I. padilla and the spotted orange flowers of I. capensis have pursed pouches and horns protruding from the bottom side. It is a delicate plant that will form peapod shaped seed-heads that fling out seeds when they are touched, hence the common name. Children love making the “pop” into a fun game. The seeds are tough to save, however the plant can self sow itself quickly.

Hummingbirds find the blooms of the orange spotted variety irresistible and can be watched returning again and again to their favorite patch of Jewelweed growing nearby. Deer also seem to like the fleshy plants as a tasty treat. this fertile plant may be a bother to some at times as they can become invasive, however, Jewelweed can be a cure sent from heaven for those who experience skin irritations.

Medicinal Uses of Jewelweed

American Indian remedies use a quick application to the affected area exposed to the oils of poison ivy as well as the bright orange flower of the plant as a dye. Jewelweed can relieve most symptoms of skin irritations such as Poison Ivy, Poison Oak, Stings and Sunburn pain. This common plant can even stop one from getting the nasty rash if used just after exposure. I have tried this method often with very good results. If applied right after exposure no signs of the rash develops and if a poultice is applied after rash erupts, the itchiness is relieved. Chinese herbalist have used Jewelweed for a variety of swelling, bruises and rheumatism and as an antimicrobial agent, however, there are no published reports on these later issues.

Identification

I do not recommend cultivating this plant in gardens because they can become invasive. I also recommend that you ask an expert before trying to find Jewelweed if you don’t know how to identify it.

There is a vast a plan in nature. With troublesome plants such as stinging Nettle, Poison Ivy and Poison Oak, it is not uncommon to find this cure growing nearby. The leaves are rounded, and the flowers are easily identified (pictured). Fleshy stems of the Jewelweed can be crushed in the hand and the juices rubbed onto the skin or a poultice made from the flesh of the stems and applied to the skin. Harvest several of the best plants, cut the stems into sticks and place them in a zip lock bag in a refrigerator. This quickly sooths sunburn and the Jewelweed will go to work with its healing properties. Jewelweed can last for about a week kept in an airtight container. Recipes are available online for home-made salves and ways of adding Jewelweed extract to soap and infused which hazel or vinegar spritzer for a longer storage life of this wonderful medicinal herb.

One of the best things about Jewelweed is that it blooms continually from summer into the fall in fertile, moist, alkaline soil. Even when most of the cultivated landscape plants begin to peter out, Jewelweed the pretty plants will keep on blooming. Partially shaded areas near water is where it can be found and forms a shallow root system which makes the plant easy to harvest. Swampy areas are also places the Jewelweed can be seen. I have found that jewelweed does not tolerate drought and will die back quickly when soil is dry. The plant itself is delicate and can be knocked down by heavy rainfall or walking.

Recipes for keeping Jewelweed as a handy first aid treatment

These recipes for using and preserving Jewelweed are available online. I generally use the freshly harvested plant right away. As always, ask your physician or herbalist before using. Anyone who spends time outdoors hiking or camping should have knowledge of this plants identification and use. It is readily available and can even help with stings.

Jewelweed Salve (has a shelf life for up to one year)

Warm one cup of vegetable oil of choice (olive oil is not recommended as it can burn). Add a handful (not too much) of cut stems of Jewelweed to the oil and simmer (do not boil). Strain out flesh of the stems. (strain all organic matter out as this can cause the salve to spoil if left in recipe) and add 1 oz of chopped beeswax while oils is still hot and mix together very well. Place in a refrigerator in small airtight containers that are portable to set and you now have enough Jewelweed salve to share with family and friends. Rub salve on areas affected by stings, poison Ivy and Oak and many other skin irritations

Jewelweed Lotion:

To make the lotion, get a bunch of jewelweed and put in a pot. Add water to cover, and simmer for about 30 minutes. Strain off the herb, pour the jewelweed juice into ice cube trays, and freeze. Store jewelweed cubes in freezer bags in your freezer, and use as needed either as a preventative or treatment.

The Beautiful Lily

(2007 Danbury News-Times)

 One of the easiest ways to add height and character to a perennial garden is by planting Lilies. The bulbs are simple to plant and many can be added for colorful blooms through our growing season in the fall or the spring. The lily is hardy to our cold winters; in fact, they need a cooling period to bloom properly. Here in Connecticut Lilies should return each year for an explosive blast of color from spring to late summer.

  The Lily can be planted in the early spring or in the fall and are available at both times of the year. Lilies can be grown just about anywhere in the garden, in a shrubby area, the perennial garden and even on display in containers wherever one wishes to show them off.  They are very useful planted in a cutting garden for fantastic indoor displays.

   There are hundreds of Lily varieties available at nurseries and mail order catalogs. I recommend ordering early for the best and largest of bulbs. The size varies from one variety to another. A healthy Lily bulb should look like plump scales that overlap each other until the bulb if formed. Some roots will be on larger bulbs at the base, but is not necessary to grow properly. Take care when purchasing late if there small stalks starting to grow. It is important to protect the new growth from breaking away from the bulb. The bulb should be firm, not soft or dry.

  The flowers of Lilies come in different shapes. There are Trumpets, Bowl shapes, re-curved petal that will reach all the way back like a butterfly and funnel shaped blossoms that will open slightly but not fully. We will explore the Oriental and Asiatic so as not to get too complicated.

Asiatic or Oriental? Which to choose?

 There are a few differences between the Asiatic and Oriental Lilium which will make it easy to choose where to plant them. By combining both, the perennial border will have blossoms through most of the season.

   Asiatic Lilies generally Bloom earlier in the year, from mid-to-late spring. One of the earliest being the Martagon Lily or Madonna Lily.  Many are trumpet shaped and have little or no fragrance. However, lots of hybrids have been developed to enhance these characteristics. These include the Candidum, American hybrids and Longiflorum hybrids. One favorite of mine is the Lilium speciosum rubrum. This year it has several small recurved blossoms that look down and are truly eye catching.

  Oriental Lilies may be some the most recognized because they have a very powerful scent that can carry long distances. One blossom can fill a room with sweet perfume when used as a cut flower. Most blossom later in the season from mid-to-late summer, sometimes even into early fall such as the sparkling white L. ‘Casa Blanca’. A very popular Oriental Lily, L. ‘Star Gazer’ has a dark fuchsia blossom speckled with black dots with and outer edged lined in white, which is a show stopper. ‘Oriana’ starts off as a blush pink bud that opens to surprise one with a creamy light orange/peach and very nice soft scent. The Oriental Lily flowers are very large bowl shaped bloom with beautiful color patterns.

Planting and Care of the Lily

   Most Lily bulbs can be planted in a full to partially shaded area. The soil does not have to be anything special but drain well in a place where water is not a problem. Some bulbs grow roots from the base of the stem. Plant each bulb six to eight inches below the soil as soon as they are purchased for the best results. Space each bulb at least 12-inches apart so they will each have enough room to mature with time. Taller varieties should be tied up with a sturdy stake before blossoms open to keep them erect. Heavy rain or the weight of larger blossoms may cause the tall stalks to bend or break off.  Lily bulbs planted in containers should, again, be well drained and at least 12” in diameter. I recommend using larger containers that are heavy with several bulbs planted in the same pot for an outstanding show near a doorway or patio.

   Lilies are very heavy feeders and will need to be fed on a regular schedule to keep the bulb strong and healthy. I recommend sprinkling a time released fertilizer right after planting, and early each spring. When cutting these beautiful flowers for arrangements, be careful not to cut more than one-third of the stalk as this will make the plant weak.

    After flowers have finished blooming, only cut off the spent flower and not the stalk. The bulb needs to rebuild itself for the next season of growth. Wait until the entire stalk turns brown in late fall before removing and cleaning the area up for the winter months. The stalk should break away very easily at this point. Good gardening practices by proper care and clean up of the lily beds in the fall will keep them healthy and strong.

   One pest that is important for a gardener to keep a lookout for is the Lily Leaf Beetle. This pest can damage an entire Lily garden in one spring. The beetle is very beautiful with a bright red body and black head and legs, but a pest indeed. You can find more information about the lily leaf beetle at the online Pest Handbook by the Connecticut Agricultural Experiment Station. Keeping the flower beds clean and free of debris is helpful in prevention of an infestation.

Reiki and Gardening

A Holistic Approach

(News-Times Feb 22, 2007)

  The 2006 spring, summer and fall came in but left us with too much rain, sunlight was scarce at times and tough gardeners all over New England did some of their finest work.  Tomatoes were nice but many split because of the extra moisture. By keeping seeds up in mounds, potatoes grew well, however, many flowering shrubs and trees suffered from powdery mildew which one learns to reluctantly accept. Not bad for a Connecticut summer, just wet.

   A “new age” in garden practices is growing from organic food to heirloom varieties of seeds and plants being successfully brought back into home gardens. In New England, a gardener knows only Mother Nature has the last word. It does not matter how much one tills the soil or adds the best compost with loving hands, Mother Earth makes all the difference “weather”  we have an abundant crop of fresh food by the end of our short growing season, or not. Many indoor container plants struggle to make it through the winter in a dry heated homes or problem with pesky critters.

   It has been said that talking to plants is beneficial, how about Reiki? The word Reiki come from Japanese language with Rei meaning “all that is” and Ki meaning “life energy” or together a “universal life force energy”. Practitioners use this “energy” that flows through all living things for healing themselves and others as well. What one my not know is that Reiki can be used to help healthy plants grow too!

    Plants have been found to respond positively to this Reiki energy and can aid in helping plants thrive. Talking to them, sharing love, caring and attentiveness helps plants to grow healthy from seedlings, forming the root systems and well into blossom. Why not, it makes sense? Gardeners love the labor of tilling, planting, weeding and feeding. With caring hands most gardens can look wonderful each year. This is a form of Reiki; sharing ones love and energy with another form of life by careful cultivation is proof enough for me.

Let’s try it!

     This time of year it may not be too hard to find an ailing plant in the house. Or start with a healthy one too. I happen to be quite a brutal gardener because I will work with plants that thrive; however, will be the first to remove something that does not work well with me. There are some things that are just trouble, such as Spider Mites. A warm, dry home in the winter is a perfect setting for a spider mite convention.

   Make a special place designated for sick or ailing plants. It should have sunlight at least 4 hours per day for sun loving plants, cool but not cold temperatures and be where you will notice the plants every day. Use common sense such as watering regularly when the top 1” of soil feels dry to the touch, and cut back any dead or dying growth. Some plants may need almost everything trimmed back. This year it is a Passiflora (passion flower vine) is the subject, which needs just about the entire vine cut back. Mist the plant with a cold water bottle a little each day, especially if the problem is spider mites. Say a few kind words to them and touch them lightly by petting or patting to simulate the wind blowing outside. This helps the formation of stronger stems.

     Observe the plants to see if there may be a difference after two to three weeks of this “special” attention. Is there any new growth showing? Has the plant gotten sicker? Plants are living things that need this positive energy, especially in the winter months when there is little stimulation from the outdoors.

      I will bet that most plants that have any chance of surviving will make a great comeback with the extra care. A gardener will feel encouraged to make an extra effort when dealing with the winter blues while nursing some favorite plants back to health and help themselves feel better too! --TPW

Chrysanthemums Bring Laughter and Happiness

(Danbury News Times 09/26/06)

  As fall fast approaches, the colors make themselves noticed almost overnight. The skirts of the trees start showing their truest colors, pumpkins ripen, harvest time begins and Chrysanthemums start showing up in grocery stores and garden centers, ready to bloom. Blossoms vary from plants that are filled with small 1-inch purple pom pom flowers, to  three-inch dainty daisy-like blooms and the much larger, more exotic hybrids. Chrysanthemums are so popular that even large 10”-12” potted plants have a reasonable prices so purchasing new varieties each year is not difficult. The secret to keeping these greenhouse grown mums perennial is to plant early and offer a good winter protection.

  Chrysanthemums originated in China where this beautiful plant was grown as an herb. Japan holds this flower in its original daisy form of very high regard and even has a celebration each year in honor of these flowers called “The Festival of Happiness”. Here in the United States the Chrysanthemum is considered one the most popular flowers of the fall season. These pretty herbs have been hybridized into many different shapes, sizes with colors ranging from white, pink, purple, red, orange and countless places in-between. Just walk through a nursery and one will find a new variety each year. Some varieties are not hardy to our cold winters so be sure to check the planting stick or ask the nursery if your choice of mum is hardy. Compliment the mums with annual zinnias and beautiful ornamental Kale for a fabulous fall display.

Purchasing Potted Mums

   If potted mums are purchased in the fall, the root systems of these greenhouse grown plants will be quite root bound and may have a hard time establishing roots in the ground. Get them planted in the ground as soon as possible. After removing the plant from its container, “tickle” the roots from the bottom and sides of the plant. I do not recommend fertilizing at this time of the year because plants are entering the dormant stage and getting ready for winter. Once the mums are settled, water them so there is no air pockets and firm up the area around the bottom without pressing too hard.

  Once the plant is dormant and frost is set in the soil for the winter, a four to six-inch layer of straw, oak leaves or handy loose organic material should be placed over the top of the area to keep the frost from pushing the root system out of the ground during the winter months. (This is a common occurrence after planting mums in the fall if protection is not used)

  From late the following spring until mid-July, pinch the fast growing Chrysanthemums as they get about 12” tall, back to half of that height so the stems will branch out. This makes for more flowers and stronger stems. If mums are left to grow on their own the stem may become very tall, bloom too early and fall over as a result of their heavy, hybrid blossoms. Stop pinching plants back by late July.

 Propagating Mums Is Easy

  My gardens are always on a tight budget and Chrysanthemums are one of the easiest plants to propagate. Plugs can be obtained from several nurseries just by asking, however, the plugs can be propagated very easily (if you already have some growing) at home with potting soil and seed trays left over from spring sowing. Kids will have fun and be rewarded with lots of small mum plants to put in the ground or share with loved ones.

  As mentioned above, hardy perennial Chrysanthemums should be pinched back several times during the growing season. The earliest cuttings can be used for starting many smaller mum plants. Prepare a seed tray by filling it with moistened potting soil and using a pen or pencil to poke a hole in each cell to make room for a stem.

  After pinching, collect the cut stems on a piece of newspaper. (Try not to touch the cut part of the stem with your hands.)  Take the top portion of the cutting in one hand and gently pull the bottom leaves off until there is at least 2” of bare stem. Place the new cutting into the prepared seed tray, one at a time in each seed cell. Snuggle stems in and place the entire tray in a bright shady area where there is no direct sun. Keep plugs moist but not soaked and in two weeks make a gentle tug on one of the stems to see if they have anchored in the soil. If so, start putting the new plants in a brighter area but not during the hottest time of the day. By four weeks time, roots should be showing out the bottom of the seed tray and are ready for planting.

   I recommend planting small plugs in the ground, mid-to late summer for a reliable perennial show each year. Place them in sets of three plugs so plants look larger or plant them in four to six-inch pots for gift giving. A quick gift idea is to place a small pot into the top of small cut out pumpkin for a wonderful table display. These plants will flower the same year, however plants will be compact. In following years the plants will grow to be much larger specimens. Bring laughter and happiness into you home and garden! May your garden be weed free for weeks at a time! TPW

The Romantic Moon Garden

(Danbury News Times)

  At night, most gardens will sleep away and ready their flowers for the coming daylight. A Moon Garden awakens just as the sun goes down and can be seen from a distance as a gift of radiant light. White is the best and brightest flower color for a moon garden. Flowers that are pure white will make the moon garden stand out from the darkness, however, the iridescent tiny yellow flowers of the Coreopsis ‘Tickseed’ and shimmering blue of the annual lobelia work well at dusk. Perennials and annuals paired up together will compliment each other as well as fragrant additions to lure one closer to this nighttime treat. Most of the flowers in this plan are for gardens that have full sun or at least 6 hours of sunlight.

  Bulbs can be some of the earliest blooms to catch the eye. All of these bulbs can be planted in the fall for beautiful blooms next spring. Plant Narcissus ‘Ice Follies’ or the Poeticus variety of Narcissus ‘Actea’ a large white Daffodil in bunches of 4 or 5 bulbs will give just the right spring touch paired up with the Tulip ‘String Of Pearls’. Galanthus or Snowdrops planted by the handfuls as well as Crocus ‘Jeanne d’Arc’ and tiny white bunches of the Chionodoxa or Glory of the Snow will keep white flowers in drifts until the summer plants start to bloom. A specimen of Peony ‘Krinkled White’ smack dab in the center will introduce the summer garden.

  Moon Flowers are a vine and a member of the Morning Glory family. These large 4”-5” flowers will unwind its bloom at dusk and send out a sweet fragrance through the yard. Add pure white Bearded Iris ‘Immortality’ to the list of favorite white flowers in a moon garden.  Madonna Lilies in the background for height are beautiful. Dicentra luxuriant alba or white Bleeding Heart and Four-O’clocks that will open in the center of the garden when the sun goes down for a sparkle on a moonlit night. A border of the sweet perfumed Alyssum will frame the whites and bring them all together.

 Fall in a moon garden is filled with the Oriental Lilies such as the, ‘La Claridad’ and ‘Silver Elegans’ will be seen and their potent aroma is wonderful at night.  Clematis paniculata or Fall Blooming Clematis will climb over any white structure you may wish to add and the tiny white, fragrant flowers blanket the vine in fall. Phlox  ‘David’ and Echinacea ‘White Swan’ will have a long bloom until the end of the fall and look beautiful in the winter when the seed heads are covered in snow.

Using many varieties of white flowers or all one kind of white flowering plants will stand out in the night. Creating a moon garden with any white, light yellow, light pink flowers will show off personality plus!  Add a piece of statuary such as a birdbath and the winter garden will never be without character.  Place a sitting area or benches near so you will be able to relax, soak in the rays of the moon and add a little romantic feeling in the garden when shared it with others.

Tea Time With Pansies

(The Danbury News Times)

Just looking at Violas can have a happy effect. Walk into a greenhouse of pansies with their smiling faces and one can’t help but be a bit more cheerful. Pull out the white gloves, set the pot on for tea and enjoy.

Violas are heirloom flowers. Johnny-jump-ups are one of the wild forms of violet as well as the one first known varieties. Pansies are the result of cultivation for many years in France from these wild forms of the Viola. The word Pansy is French for “thoughts” and “memories”.  V. ‘Strawberry Sundae’ has unforgettable beautiful large bloom with a perfect mixture of red and white swirled together.

Pansies have much larger flower, but are not as tolerant of our cold temperatures here in the Northeast. Violets are hardy here in our climate zone 5. Some violets do very well as a perennial in Connecticut gardens. The V. Rebecca is a beautiful white and yellow flower edged in purple, which will come back reliably each year.

A sure sign that summer is on the way are when we see the first pansies shining their pretty faces with bright purples, sunny yellows, sparkling reds and even crispy white varieties. I recommend growing them in containers so they can be used again in the fall. Compliment a spring garden with Pansies just as the tulips, crocus and daffodils start to fade away.

Dappled shade or bright shade is the secret to growing these easy to care for plants. Under a deciduous tree that is just sprouting its spring leaves is a perfect place for planting. Keep the soil moist but not wet and be sure the area or container is well drained. Pansies resent soggy soil and will quickly wilt. If the weather stays cool, the plants will thrive and bloom into the summer months.

Gardeners are discovering that Pansies are not finished by the end of spring. Fall is a great time to have plants re-bloom as the cooler temperatures return. Once pansies begin to bolt in the summer heat, cut the plants all the way back and set the containers in a shady place in the yard. Water regularly until the cool weather returns and the pansies are ready to bloom again.

Just imagine the V. ‘Jolly Joker’ as a perfect flower for the fall landscape with its bright orange petals and dark violet edging. These are the colors of fall as pansies stand far apart from the typical chrysanthemums for autumn.

Viola seeds can also be sprinkled in the garden by late spring to early summer for a fall bloom. Viola seeds can also be sown, germinate and grow well into the late fall. The foliage will stay evergreen and when spring arrives, the plants will come into full bloom earlier. The plants are acclimated to the cool temperatures and a stunning early show.

Johnny-jump-ups will re-seed in areas by popping their seedpods out over an area. The seedlings will sprout up just about anywhere in the garden and the lawn. Sprinkle these seeds into the lawn for early fall.

I have found many of these beetles in my lilies this spring.  Had a few last year but this year it seems that I pick them off my lilies every day.  They are ruining my lily beds. I live in Holland Vt.  If you should go to a VT map you will find Holland at the top of the map, center of the state on the Canadian border. This is the first time I have ever had a problem with any type of an insect in the 20 years that I have been living here. Will try organic methods but may have to go to Sevin.

Rachael

Answer:

Hello Rachael,

  You will have a problem as the Lily Leaf Beetle can destroy a Lily planting in a very short time. Bioneem seems to be one of the most effective ways to manage these nasty pests as well as picking them off as you have been doing. The beetle is bright red with a black head and will make a hissing sound when picked up.

  Here is a link for more information. Cleaning out the lily bed and discarding any affected bulbs, plants and above ground growth is very important, especially this fall when the eggs hibernate just under the soil and garden debris.

http://www.umassgreeninfo.org/fact_sheets/defoliators/lily_leaf_beetle.html

reply:I was at one of our local nurseries yesterday and was informed that two towns that are in  our a rural area are “infested’” with these bugs so my explain why some of them have arrived in my garden.  Our garden supply business does stock Neem