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A website for practical garden advice.
Lisa Durante aka
"The Plant Whisperer" is a Master Gardener, certified by the University of Connecticut and a former "Garden
Adviser" for White Flower Farm. She has worked the ground up from nurseries to landscaping to learn
about how to make the world a little more beautiful with flowers and plants. "In fact , like most people in the horticultural
field, I am still learning!" Her specialty is herbaceous perennials and flowering bulbs are one of her favorite things
to add into a landscape. She is here
to offer you information about gardening techniques as well as practical growing advice. "I love to share knowledge with
the novice gardener as well as learn from the more experienced green thumbs."
Insect Alert for Connecticut.
Spotted
Wing Drosophila Drosophila suzukii
10/04/2012
Click Here for information
| Made by The Plant Whisperer |
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| The Original HUM-fi |
Here is a list of perennials and annuals that will
attract hummingbirds to your home garden. These are some of the more common flowering plants that a hummingbird will come
to feed, however there are many more depending on the area in which you live.
Agastache
Beard
Tongue (and other penstemons)
Blue
Lobelia
Butterfly
Bush ( Buddleia Davidii)
Calibrachoa
(Million Bells)
Canna
Cardinal Flower
Cardinal
Flower (Lobelia Cardinalis)
Catawba
Rhododendrons (Rhododendron Catawbiense)
Columbine
Coral BellsCrocosima
Lilly (Hemerocallis)
Delphinium
Firespike
Flowering
herbs
Four
O'Clocks
Foxglove
Fuchsia
Hollyhocks
Honeysuckle (native
to the area) Japanese is very invasive and not recommended
Hosta
Impatiens
Jewelweed
Liatris
Little
Cigar
Lupine
Penstemon Agastache
Beard Tongue
(and other penstemons)
Blue
Lobelia
Butterfly
Bush ( Buddleia Davidii)
Calibrachoa
(Million Bells)
Canna
Cardinal Flower
Cardinal
Flower (Lobelia Cardinalis)
Catawba
Rhododendrons (Rhododendron Catawbiense)
Columbine
Coral BellsCrocosima
Lilly (Hemerocallis)
Delphinium
Firespike
Flowering
herbs
Four
O'Clocks
Foxglove
Fuchsia
Hollyhocks
Honeysuckle (native
to the area) Japanese is very invasive and not recommended
Hosta
Impatiens
Jewelweed
Liatris
Little
Cigar
Lupine
Penstemon
PEONY’S FROM HEAVEN A visit to “Cricket Hill Garden”
Thomaston, CT Tree Peonies or Paeonia (pronounced Pee-oh-nee) have been part of the Chinese culture for hundreds of years and is
the national flower of China. Tree Peonies are a highly regarded plant and were not available for many years. Festivals are
dedicated to these beautiful woody ornamental plants that have blooms as large as 10” across. David & Kasha Furman,
Owners of “Cricket Hill Garden” in Thomaston took some time out from their busy schedule to
show me around the Peony farm, which has been in business since 1988. “We got our first plants from China in 1990-1991
and have been buying them from China ever since.” Furman has a wonderful sense of humor and welcomes
conversation as well as questions. As you drive into “Peony Heaven”
at Cricket Hill Garden, there are paper umbrellas placed strategically over several of the plants to protect the blooms and
is a most exotic sight. Tree Peonies (woody plants) bloom a bit earlier than the herbaceous type (die back each fall to the
ground). Kasha Furman works with the Herbaceous Peonies, which also come from China as well as Central Asia (Chao Dynasty).
Typically blooms start around early to mid June and peak just as the Herbaceous Peonies start to show off their colors in
late June. The Oohs and Ahhs never stop from one plant to another. Furman says the most popular variety changes as the plants
bloom “It depends on what’s blooming that day.” When people see these beautiful and fragrant flowers, that’s
the one they want to purchase. When asked what his personal favorite is he states with humor, “That’s like asking
me, what’s my favorite Son?”
Planting must be done carefully and the Furman crew offers a step-by-step video to their customers. Peonies must be
planted while they are dormant (not yet growing). There is a small window of opportunity in early spring between late March
and early April, just as soon as the ground can be worked. Most planting in the northeast are done in the fall starting in
late September to early October and that is the recommended time for transplanting or moving a Peony plant.
Peonies have a complicated root system. The planting hole should be at least 2’ around and
should be planted with the crown no more than 2” below the surface. Planting a Peony too deep can cause poor flowering.
Place the roots into the hole with a mound built up in the center, fan out roots and place soil over them. Water the hole
(this is called “mudding in”) and repeat this step several times until the hole is filled in being careful about
the plants depth in the soil. Winter protection (not mulch) should be used after the ground has frozen to prevent the root
system from being heaved out of the ground by frost. Mr. Furman also states that he only uses organic fertilizer for his plants.
“We are very careful about the ponds here and our birds.” which is alive with the sounds of frogs in mating season.
When asked if this couple takes care of the farm all by themselves, Furman squints his eyes and says that he and his wife
put out bowls of porridge each night and “The pixies do the work.” Cricket Hill
Garden is located on 670 Walnut Hill Road in Thomaston, CT. Kasha and David Furman will answer your calls at 860-283-1042
and they have a wonderful website at www.treepeony.com with a treasure trove of information. The Furman’s have visiting hours
while the Peonies are in bloom. Call ahead for details. Prices range for a plant that is at least 4 years old are from $60.00
to $150.00 (depending on how difficult they are to grow). They have one 10-year-old plant that sold for $600.00!
Bring out the Amaryllis!
It is time to think holiday floral
arrangements. The traditional red Amaryllis or Hippeastrum is one that comes to mind. Each year there are new and
unusual varieties developed in Holland, which makes choosing just one a tough decision. How can one choose between the candy
cane hybrid A. ‘Dancing Queen’ and the traditional colors of A. ‘Red Lion’?
Dutch,
African, or South American What’s the Difference? The variety of “Dutch Hybrid” Amaryllis has large blooms and
tall stems. One that will look stunning on your table this year is the bright bold red and white striped A. ‘Hermitage’
will be a welcome addition to your collection. A. ‘Dancing Queen’ is a double variety that
is a beautiful candy cane color that will be a conversation piece. Each flower stalk has four blooms and the leaves will emerge
after the blooms with Dutch varieties. South American Amaryllis are a rare type of Amaryllis. The flowers are
large and preferred by florists with shorter stems. A. ‘Papillio’ is one of the smaller blooms that are striped
burgundy and green. These flowers look stunning with three bulbs planted together in one decorative pot. Leaves come up at
the same time and Most South African Amaryllis doesn’t need to be staked. In warmer climates, bulbs left in the ground
will multiply in clumps of 50 or more. African Amaryllis will bloom much faster, some as soon as 20 days.
The bulbs are much smaller and have shorter stems with smaller but numerous blooms. This type of flower is unique and
very bright and can be grown in full sunlight. The A. ‘Rosetta’ is a beautiful 6-inch double pink bloom that is
a showstopper. The A. ‘Sundance’ is a time-honored red for the holiday. A. ‘Alfresco’ is a pure white
flower on a short stalk. Some of these varieties can have a fragrance, however the Amaryllis flower is not known for aroma.
It is best to ask when purchasing if the flower has a fragrance. How
To Grow Amaryllis Start by buying healthy bulbs. A common problem with Amaryllis is ‘red fire’
or red spots on the bulb and leaves. This fungus is a sure sign there is a problem and the bulb should be replaced. Amaryllis
that is growing from last year can be brought out of dormancy and planted. Many varieties will bloom at different times. A.
‘Jewel’ has a creamy white flower that will take time to bloom, however, since it that has a fragrance; it will
be welcome in the winter home. Use
a pot that has a drainage hole. Like most bulbs, Amaryllis bulbs do not like to be wet so drainage is important. Use a good
soil mix that is for containers. Plant the Amaryllis bulb so the top one third is above the surface and fill in with soil.
Water, keep moist but not wet and then water a bit more once growth starts. Set the pot in a warm place in the house until
a sprout starts to emerge. Some Amaryllis may prefer a little bit of heat at the root area. The top of a refrigerator is a
nice warm spot, or a propagation mat set on low will encourage an Amaryllis into sending out new growth. Once a stalk appears,
put the pot in a sunny window. Sunlight will help build a strong flower stem and keep the taller stalks from toppling over. After Care of Bulbs or if you have Last years Amaryllis
When blooms have faded, cut off
the stalk, fertilize and water on a regular schedule. Grow the Amaryllis as a plant; the leaves will be attractive in a backdrop
area of the house while new plants are brought in. When warm weather comes, put the plant outdoors in a bright area that is
not in full sun for the summer and keep watering. In fall, stop watering the plant and let the leaves die back to the top
of the bulb. At this point cut off the old growth at the neck and bring indoors in a cool, dry, dark place such as a basement
or under a sink where it will not be disturbed for eight to ten weeks. After the dormant period has completed bring out the
bulb, replant in fresh soil and the Amaryllis will be happy to have a repeat performance.
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Imagine a Garden and Other Cabin Feverish Banter Now that we are receiving spring catalogs in November and December,
by the time March rolls around one collects quite a pile of treasured reading. Tucked away for a snowy winter day, ahhh, sit
down, pull out favorite catalog and start the 2010 spring planning. Which new flowers and vegetables are worth the time
and effort of starting from seed? Plants that are difficult to find such as the Dusty Miller ‘Silver
Lace’, unusual varieties of heirloom vegetables and perennials are the most cost effective to grow at home. Many
gardeners prefer to grow everything from seeds, however starts work just as well and does not make you any less of a gardener. Spring Catalog competition is
fierce. It’s hard to throw any of them away because they have been beautifully photographed and contain so much useful
information. One Method is to draw big circles for the first round of seeds and thin out the choices to what is reasonable.
Remember many favorite plants are available in the local nurseries for much less time and money than starting from seed. Some flower and vegetable seeds do
much better if they are planted right in the ground such as sunflowers, snow peas, lettuce and beans. Others need to be started
early enough indoors to make the most of our growing season (which is never seems long enough) such as Pumpkins, Tomatoes,
Dahlias and Tuberous Begonias.
Here are a few tips on seed starting to help you have healthy plants by the time spring rolls around and not just packet
of seeds sitting on the kitchen windowsill with pretty pictures of your dreamy gardens. Getting Started
Use a seed system that is easily recycled into the ground such as paper pots, or the peat pots that are found in most
discount stores. Seed starting mix will be needed at first, which is very light and will allow the seedlings
to germinate properly and then a heavier transplanting mixture when each seedling is ready for a larger pot. Sprinkle the
tiniest of seeds carefully into the seed trays and use at least 3 of the larger seeds in each peat pot or home made paper
pots.I have even recruited the bathroom Dixi cups for starting seeds. Many seeds will germinate or sprout, but you are going
to have to thin out the little seedlings so they do not have to compete for space. Seedlings will need a lot of light. Put
small windowsill gardens in a South or Southwest facing window. A grow light is recommended for larger
scale seed starting. Any fluorescent shop light will do, hung about 1”-2” above them and raised as the seedlings
grow. Grow lights should be on for 16 to 18 hours per day because fluorescent light is not as strong as natural sunlight.
A timer will help to be sure there is enough light. This will keep the plant stems short and healthy. If there is not enough
light, seedlings will start reaching out and have weak stems. Lightly brush the tops of seedlings with a hand every once in
awhile to make the stems strong (this imitates breeze). Warmth
and Water Warmth is also important
to keep your little treasured investments happy. Heat in the root area is good. Many garden centers and Mail order catalogs
have heating mats available for this purpose. This encourages roots to grow healthy and strong. The soil for seedlings should be moist, but not wet,
at all times. If you find that your seeds germinate, fall over and die back, they most likely need more warmth or are
too wet. This is called “dampening off”. Watering with a spray bottle is a gentle way to treat the seedlings without
washing them away for the first few weeks until they are big enough to be transplanted into larger pots. Keeping a plastic
cover over the top of them will help keep moisture in as long as it is lifted a few hours each day so they can breath. Pinching
back is necessary to encourage the young plants to become fuller so they will produce more flower buds and fruit. This should
be done once the seedlings have several sets of leaves by cutting back the top with a tiny pair of shears right above the
second set of leaves. This may need to be done more than once before you are ready to plant the new annual flowers and vegetables
outside.
Waiting until after Memorial Day for planting is recommended for fickle New England
weather.
New to seed starting? Give it a try and you will be proud to see what you have done!
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| Witch Hazel branch in bloom |
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Forcing bare branches into winter bloom Late winter is a great time for
pruning branches from the forsythia, weeping willow, cherry and apple and many other early blooming trees for a spectacular
arrangement indoors. Flowering almond (Prunus triloba) branches will bloom indoors with their beautiful
delicate pink pom pom blossoms, witch hazel (Hamamelis) may benefit from a little bit of pruning or thinning. The unusual
yellow or rusty red flowers will make for an interesting flower arrangement. Bring these branches indoors and watch them grow.
Twigs from a Maple bloom with tiny little leaves. If children want to have a go at this great forcing technique, pussy willows
will bring their catkins to life just for them. The best branches to force are trees and shrubs that will normally bloom early
in the spring such as the crabapple, forsythia and pussy willows. It takes at least six weeks of cold temperatures for the
branches to be ready for forcing indoors.
A warmer daytime temperature is the best time to cut and force branches. Venture
outside and find the tree or shrub to prune. Be sure not to cut a shrub too much in one spot so when the spring arrives it
won’t be bare on one side. Check each specimen to see if the buds have started swelling, this is a sure sign they are
ready to force indoors. Picking
unusual branches that are crooked, gnarled or spiraled will add more interest to the arrangement. Soak the cut branches in
tepid water for about an hour, this will loosen up the buds that have been closed tightly for the winter and prepare them
to open. Use
a vase that will keep the arrangement from toppling over. Remember that at first the arrangement will only look like a bunch
of sticks in a jar so use an interesting vase or container such as a sugaring bucket. If you have extra
branches, bundle them up and put the bundle in a cool, protected place with a bucket of water such as a garage or shed. They
will keep for at least a week or longer if stored properly. Fill the vase with room temperature water and arrange your branches
to show off your artistic side. Place in a cool bright area out of direct sun and be patient. Both the
experienced gardener and children will have fun watching the tiny buds open into small leaves, cherry blossoms or fuzzy little
catkins. Fruit
blossoms like the flowering crabapple (Malus florbunda) will bloom for at least a week if they are kept in a cool area. Take
notes on which branches looked best for next harvest of interesting branches.. Try branches that you would not think can be
beautiful and you may be surprised.
Late february is the best time to choose branches from the forsythia, spring blooming witch hazel, white forsythia,
pussy willow, wild cherry, maple, birch, bittersweet and weeping willow. Wait until march for fruit trees, redbud and spirea
because the buds are not quite ready until a bit later in the winter.
Danbury News Times
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