The Plant Whisperer

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The Plant Whisperer Column will no longer be published in the Danbury News Times. We are currently looking for a new home for The Plant Whisperer.  Those interested in a garden column that is informative, beautiful and fun, please contact me for more information at PlantWhisperer42@aol.com or through the e-mail below. I hope to be soon in a publication near you. Thank you to those who have taken the time to write and I will still be here for your gardening questions.


 

Lisa Durante
aka "The Plant Whisperer" is a Master Gardener, certified by the University of Connecticut and a former "Garden Adviser" for White Flower Farm. She has worked the ground up from nurseries to landscaping to learn about how to make the world a little more beautiful with flowers and plants. "In fact , like most people in the horticultural field, I am still learning!" Her specialty is herbaceous perennials and flowering bulbs are one of her favorite things to add into a landscape.
  She is here to offer you information about gardening techniques as well as practical growing advice. "I love to share knowledge with the novice gardener as well as learn from the more experienced green thumbs."                        


  *HUM-fi
(hum-fee)
   Hand Held Hummingbird Feeders!

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Click on the picture to see the HUM-fi in ACTION!

*Patent Pending

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 Grow A Butterfly Habitat


  
The beauty of butterflies fascinates children and adults alike. From the familiar markings of the Monarch to the bold colors of the Black Swallowtail. Summer has arrived when the first Sulphurs are spotted among the earliest blooms of dandelions and wildflowers. A garden can be planned to draw not only the adult butterflies but the young larvae too. Perennials should be paired with plants that will sustain each stage of growth. There are four stages in the life of a butterfly: the egg, caterpillar, chrysalis and the adult butterfly. There is also special plants for butterflies to lay their eggs on which will feed the larvae and form the chrysalis before the caterpillar can become an adult. If everything a butterfly needs is supplied in a home garden, it will only be a matter of time before a small habitat is created!   CAUTION, use of insecticides in your gardens is not advised because butterflies will not thrive.


Provide A Watering Hole

    There are many beautiful ways to provide water to butterflies; however, just by watering the garden early on hot days will draw more of natures winged jewels. They can drink from just a tiny drop of water and be satisfied. Planting short varieties of Balloon Flowers (Platycodon grandiflorus) is perfect for this reason because the foliage forms a cup and captures drops of water, even from the morning dew. The perennial Lupine works in much the same manner holding droplets of water in their leaves.


Special Egg Laying Plants

   In the garden, an adult butterfly will look for special plants to lay their eggs on. Each species of Butterfly has a particular plant or tree to place their eggs. They will provide a safe haven for the eggs to mature as well as food when the young caterpillars hatch. At this stage of life the young larvae have a chewing mouth and will eat the new tender growth. By the time the caterpillar is ready to form a chrysalis, most of the plant may be eaten. Place these feeding plants behind the nectar plants or in a place that is a bit shady to protect the caterpillars and to keep the garden from looking bare after the hungry eaters are done. Below are some host plants that will be needed for different varieties of Butterflies. Again, be careful not to use insecticides.


Monarch………………………...Asclepia syriaca or Common Milkweed

Black Swallowtail………………Dill, Parsley, Carrot and Fennel

Great Spangled Fritillary………..Violets

Spicebush Swallowtail…………..Spicebush (Lindera benzoin)

Checkered White Sulphur……….Mustard


  
Once the caterpillars form into a chrysalis, in about two week the butterfly will form and break out of the chrysalis. Most butterflies (except migrating Monarchs) will only live to about 10-20 days as an adult.  The adult butterfly has a tube-like mouth called a proboscis and will now need perennials and annuals that serve nectar up on the menu.


A Circle Of Life

   After a few days, the butterflies will again need a place to lay eggs for the next generation.  The Butterfly Bush (Buddleia) is one of the best shrubs for attracting the adult butterflies. The ‘Nanho Blue’ is a wonderful addition because the flowers are larger and their strong fragrance reminds one of Lilacs all summer long. To keep the Buddleia in bloom, deadhead the spent flowers by using a pair of scissors and the shrub will keep blooming into the fall. Purple Coneflowers (Echinacea) as well as the White Coneflower ‘White Swan’ are food sources for our beautiful nectar-seekers. Blazing Stars (Liatris) are wonderful additions to your butterfly garden with tall spikes of fluffy lavender Liatris spicata or white L. spicata 'Floristan Weiss' and the fluffy flowers are butterfly magnets. Bee Balm (Monarda), M.‘Raspberry Wine’ is such a beautiful color of burgundy and M. didyma “Scarlet Bee Balm’ will send out a beacon to our winged friends to come sample their sweet nectar.  Bee Balm will fill in an area nicely without becoming invasive. I have listed a sample of other nectar producing annual and perennial plants that are well suited for butterfly habitats here in Connecticut. Remember to plant these in at least 6 hours of sun so the plants will thrive and the butterflies can bask their wings in the sun before flight. For more information about growing a butterfly garden, check out these websites,

The Northern Prairie Wildlife Research Center at www.npwrc.usgs.gov or the Connecticut Butterfly Association at http://butterflywebsite.com/society/cba/.

Have fun this summer
!


Annuals                    Perennials

Cosmos                      Butterfly Weed- Asclepia

Calendula                   Spirea

Zinnia                         Joe-Pye Weed

Alyssum                     Phlox (ground or tall)

Salvia                         Coreopsis (Tickseed)

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Sheet Mulching

Using Old Carpet, Sheets and blankets as Mulch

Re-use & Recycle

 

 

A simple and practical solution to vegetable gardening and the weeds that accompany them is  By using old carpeting (not the rubber cushioning underneath) or old sheets and discarded blankets as a barrier mulch comes to mind that some gardeners may not have heard about; a method called Sheet Mulching.  It is a way to recycle and big help in the garden by preventing weeds around the growing plants.

 

Squash vines, Cucumber, Pumpkin Patches as well as late season crops will benefit from this kind of mulch. Water can easily soak through and it helps moisture stay in the ground. Most weeds will not grow through a carpets thick layer. This method has been used to stop the invasive Japanese Knotweed (bamboo) because it cannot grow through the thick fabric.

 

Old cotton sheets can be used in the same manner, however, will not last more than one growing season. I suggest using sheets with decorative mulch placed over the top for a nice, almost weed free annual garden. A 6 to 9 sheet layer of newspaper underneath will help  improve the weed barrier qualities and will also decompose into the soil over time. This type of sheet mulching works very well in smaller scale gardens such as condo-gardens, gravesite gardens. A single sheet can be cut to the right size (one can even double the fabric or fold in half) and place over the planting area. Use a pair of shears to cut out the area for annuals, plant and place decorative mulch over the top to cover the sheet. The sheet will decompose over a single season.

 

Use old carpeting cut into long strips for using in between garden rows for a tough weed barrier and an easier working space when harvesting. Strips can also be used when planting a new hedge. Cut into circles and turn upside down to use around the bottom of newly planted trees and shrubs, cover with a small amount of soil to hide the carpet (be careful not to mow it over). This will also help with water retention, which is important to new trees. Again, turning the carpet over and cutting out spaces for a Kitchen Herb garden will help with controlling wandering herbs. A large carpet over the top of a tilled fall garden with sheets of cardboard, newspaper, chopped leaves underneath will help provide fresh new nutrients to break down into the soil.

 

There are pros of using sheet mulching above that are good, however, there are also some cons of using this type of mulch. The carpeting in the garden is not the best thing to look at, but as the season progresses, plants grow over the top of the carpeting it is not as conspicuous. It actually looks quite nice as pumpkins, cucumbers, gourds and other vines grow over top and rest on the carpet rather than the soil, which can prevent rotten spots.  Carpeting over time in the winter months will attract small rodents to stay warm. It also has been posted that slugs, earwigs and such like to live under it, which is what a gardener will find under the soil anyway. Sheet mulching is not good for an area that is low lying or does not drain well as this will only make the problem worse by keeping the water in the area.

 

Research on the Internet finds some organic gardeners feel that it is not safe for the soil, however I have not yet found any information that says using carpeting is bad or unhealthy for the earth. It is best to use carpets that are made of natural materials that are biodegradable. Large pieces of carpet are heavy to move especially if wet. Cutting into long strips may be easier for some.

 

 

How to get started with Sheet Mulching

 

If you are starting with an overgrown, weedy area, first cut down or trample the existing weeds this fall (this can also be done in spring). Tilling is not necessary in fall unless you are getting it ready for planting next spring. The barrier layers can even be placed right over grass to start a new garden.  Use sheets of cardboard, a layer of newspaper (6 to 10 sheets), chopped leaves or straw and layer them over the top of the soil before placing the carpet on top to simulate layers and seasons of natural debris. The idea is to keep light out so emerging weed seeds will not even germinate. Water the area well and place the old carpeting over the top.  In the spring before planting, roll back the carpet, till or turn under by hand and get the area ready for planting. Place the carpet back on the area and cut holes out for planting. I suggest mounding rows before covering.

 

By using this sheet mulching method the entire growing season will be much easier for weeding. Water retention cuts down the need for manual watering and the garden looks much better without the weeds! 

May your garden be weed free for weeks at a time!

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For The Love of Roses





    

   With Valentines Day at hand, the colors one chooses for their better half, sweetheart, friend or significant other has a special meaning. Historically, the Rose has been around for millions of years. Archeologists found rose petals in fossils that are said to be 35 million years old. Cultivation of the rose may have begun in China some 5000 years ago. They were so valuable in the seventeenth century; rose water and roses were used as money or bartered for other valuable items.

   In Catholicism, a red rose represents the Virgin Mary.  Latin Christians used the red rose to represent martyrs. During the renaissance, rose gardens were created for lovers as well as a devotion to the rosary. In Greco-Roman culture roses represent the season of spring, beauty and love. American Indians used roses in their weddings and for medicinal purposes while Romans believed that pink roses represented pain, suffering and death.



What Shade of Love To Choose?

Or Not… Hmmmm?

  

   A red rose is a universal symbol of how much in love one is to the recipient. This made giving them for Valentines Day so popular. The red rose was the favorite flower of Venus, the Roman goddess of love.

   A fresh single red rose expresses a passion for another as well as respect and courage. An unattractive dried out shriveled rose means the affair is over.  Rose buds represent youth and beauty which is a wonderful surprise for a daughter or young love.

  A single white rose is a symbol of spiritual love, purity, virginity, humility, innocence, secrecy, charm, spiritual unfolding and silence. A white rosebud means a young girl or too young for love. White roses that are past their bloom will send the message that you did not make an impression on the other person.

  A single yellow rose represents freedom, joy, “welcome back”, gladness, caring, and jealousy, a decrease in love, friendship and infidelity.  Bouquets of yellow roses are perfect to send a new Mother.

  Pink roses stand for gentle grace, gratitude, appreciation, admiration, happy love, perfect happiness, gentleness and sympathy. Dark pink roses say “Thank You”.

  Peach colored roses give the meaning of immortality, modesty, sympathy, sociability and friendship.



Did You Know?

  

   George Washington was a rose breeder for which the Martha Washington rose is named. In October 1985, the Senate passed a resolution that declared the rose as the National Floral Emblem of the United States.

  Have a loving and happy Valentines Day! --TPW

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Bring out the Amaryllis!



It is time to think holiday floral arrangements. The traditional red Amaryllis or Hippeastrum is one that comes to mind. Each year there are new and unusual varieties developed in Holland, which makes choosing just one a tough decision. How can one choose between the candy cane hybrid A. ‘Dancing Queen’ and the traditional colors of A. ‘Red Lion’? 

Dutch, African, or South American What’s the Difference?

 The variety of “Dutch Hybrid” Amaryllis has large blooms and tall stems. One that will look stunning on your table this year is the bright bold red and white striped A. ‘Hermitage’ will be a welcome addition to your collection.  A. ‘Dancing Queen’ is a double variety that is a beautiful candy cane color that will be a conversation piece. Each flower stalk has four blooms and the leaves will emerge after the blooms with Dutch varieties.

South American Amaryllis are a rare type of Amaryllis.  The flowers are large and preferred by florists with shorter stems. A. ‘Papillio’ is one of the smaller blooms that are striped burgundy and green. These flowers look stunning with three bulbs planted together in one decorative pot. Leaves come up at the same time and Most South African Amaryllis doesn’t need to be staked. In warmer climates, bulbs left in the ground will multiply in clumps of 50 or more.

African Amaryllis will bloom much faster, some as soon as 20 days.  The bulbs are much smaller and have shorter stems with smaller but numerous blooms. This type of flower is unique and very bright and can be grown in full sunlight. The A. ‘Rosetta’ is a beautiful 6-inch double pink bloom that is a showstopper. The A. ‘Sundance’ is a time-honored red for the holiday. A. ‘Alfresco’ is a pure white flower on a short stalk. Some of these varieties can have a fragrance, however the Amaryllis flower is not known for aroma. It is best to ask when purchasing if the flower has a fragrance.

How To Grow Amaryllis

 Start by buying healthy bulbs. A common problem with Amaryllis is ‘red fire’ or red spots on the bulb and leaves. This fungus is a sure sign there is a problem and the bulb should be replaced. Amaryllis that is growing from last year can be brought out of dormancy and planted. Many varieties will bloom at different times. A. ‘Jewel’ has a creamy white flower that will take time to bloom, however, since it that has a fragrance; it will be welcome in the winter home.

 Use a pot that has a drainage hole. Like most bulbs, Amaryllis bulbs do not like to be wet so drainage is important. Use a good soil mix that is for containers. Plant the Amaryllis bulb so the top one third is above the surface and fill in with soil. Water, keep moist but not wet and then water a bit more once growth starts. Set the pot in a warm place in the house until a sprout starts to emerge. Some Amaryllis may prefer a little bit of heat at the root area. The top of a refrigerator is a nice warm spot, or a propagation mat set on low will encourage an Amaryllis into sending out new growth. Once a stalk appears, put the pot in a sunny window. Sunlight will help build a strong flower stem and keep the taller stalks from toppling over.

After Care of Bulbs or if you have Last years Amaryllis

When blooms have faded, cut off the stalk, fertilize and water on a regular schedule. Grow the Amaryllis as a plant; the leaves will be attractive in a backdrop area of the house while new plants are brought in. When warm weather comes, put the plant outdoors in a bright area that is not in full sun for the summer and keep watering. In fall, stop watering the plant and let the leaves die back to the top of the bulb. At this point cut off the old growth at the neck and bring indoors in a cool, dry, dark place such as a basement or under a sink where it will not be disturbed for eight to ten weeks. After the dormant period has completed bring out the bulb, replant in fresh soil and the Amaryllis will be happy to have a repeat performance.

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Saving Heirloom Seeds

After many years of purchasing potted perennials and annuals, a gardener can go back to the basics by starting plants from seed. Saving heirloom seeds can be a bit tricky but easy to accomplish. Seed saving may be an addicting hobby once the varieties of seeds come to light. Especially when hard to find seeds are acquired in the collection. Sharing heirloom seed through several organizations and websites have brought many almost forgotten flowers and vegetables back into modern gardens. As hugely popular hybrids have been bred for bigger, better quantities of fruit and flowers, it is tough for the heirloom varieties to compete with.

Just ask Liz Costco and Ann Killen about their company “Potting Shed Creations Ltd.” in Troy Idaho. These two women are avid gardeners and seed savers. They found a need for seed saving supplies and started a home-based company that is now 35 employees strong. While working for a garden and kitchen catalog, a friend was looking for containers small enough to keep her seed collection in. Nothing could be found that was appropriate and they decided to develop one of their own. They designed the “Garden Keepers Seed Saving Kit” which has everything to get started in the seed saving hobby, including tips on collecting, drying and storing an heirloom garden for future use or gift giving.

Getting Started

Seed saving is simple, easy, and little is needed but time and patience. Start by knowing which seeds can be saved from a garden. Heirloom seeds are flowers or vegetables that have been passed down from generation to generation and have not been changed or altered genetically in any way. These are open pollinated and may have great qualities that can vary from different areas of the country such as taste, size and resistance to disease and pests. These are the kinds of seeds that can be successfully saved from year to year.

Hybrid seeds saved from hybrid plants are not seeds to keep. These seeds may be sterile, will not be true to the original mother plant or have unwanted characteristics. Hybrid plants must be hand pollinated and cultivated in a greenhouse to have all of the good qualities they were bred for. These seeds are not for saving, be sure what kind of plant the seeds will be gathered, a hybrid or an heirloom plant.

A good pair of sheers, a few envelopes, paper lunch bags, some wax paper and time is all that’s needed to get started saving seeds. After the flowers have developed into seed heads (but just before they let their small pods loose on the world), cut them off and let them drop into the bag or envelope. Small seedheads such as portulacas and poppies can be collected in envelopes because the seeds are so tiny. Larger seedheads like the purple coneflower and marigolds can be collected in the paper lunch bags.

Heirloom seeds are the choice seeds to get started on the seed saving path. There are also many organizations that sell or trade heirloom seeds to keep these varieties alive. It is wonderful to know that many backyard home gardeners can be responsible for saving a variety of plant from becoming almost extinct not to mention that some of our ancestors brought the original seeds with them to this country and are a family legacy. Grandpa Ott’s Morning Glory is one of my favorite heirloom flower seeds. The winding vine sends out some of the most beautiful velvety purple flowers and many seedpods, which can be saved and shared each year.

Drying and cleaning the seeds

Drying the seeds is as easy as marking the paper bags with the type of flower or vegetable, color, year and leaving them in a place that is dry for a period of time. Do not use an airtight container because this will stop the drying process. Liz Costco emphasizes “Make sure the seeds is completely dry before storing them” Keep the bags in an area where it is cool and dry for a long time to be sure they are dry. It can be very disappointing to come back to find mold, which will end the life of a seed quickly.

 I like to start the cleaning process in the middle of the winter to assure myself that another spring will be on it’s way soon. Start by laying down some newspaper on the work area for seeds that may fall away while working with the spent flower head. By the time they are dry, many seeds may be already at the bottom of the bag or envelope. Take whole seedheads and place them on a plate and separate the seed from the rest of the flower by hand. In some cases this can be a tedious job but for most it is fairly easy. A metal strainer can be of some help too. Cleaning the seeds before storing them is important to keep mold and debris away from the seeds.

Once the cleaning of the seeds is done, use small #1 coin envelopes. These are a great way to design your own seed packets with stamps, stickers or even stencils. Create small wax paper envelopes for the tiniest of seeds and place them into the coin envelopes so they can be easily taken out when needed. Be sure to put vital information or print labels up for each packet with the name of flower, color and cultural requirements. Be creative with your own specially designed seeds packets to trade, share or give as a springtime gift from the garden. The Garden Keepers Saving Kit has airtight tins with clear covers for viewing as well as clear glassine envelopes included in the kit for storing and protecting heirloom seeds.

Tomato, pumpkin and other fruits such as the cucumber are a little more work for seed saving and must be carefully collected. Gather some of the best ripe fruit of the season, not just from one plant but also from several of the best plants that are harvested. This keeps the quality of the seed to the best available.  This is how heirloom seeds are handed down. 

Wash the tomatoes well and cut in half. Squeeze out the seeds into a small plastic container with a lid and let it sit for 2-3 days open to the air. Shake the container to mix up the contents three times a day. The mixture will smell and a mold will appear. Shake up the container again, add water and drain off the mold until you have clean seeds. Use a clean waxy paper plate to dry the seeds in the open air, when they are completely dry, put them in envelopes marked with all of the information. Once all of the seeds have been packaged, place them in a heavy-duty freezer bag and store them in a cool, dark, dry place until you are ready to use them.

Storage

Store the containers of seeds once they have been properly dried in a cool, dark, dry place until they are ready to be planted outside or started indoors next spring. Some seeds can last for up to two years or more in these conditions; however, the germination rate is better when used the first year after harvesting.

Germination rate is figured by how many seeds start to grow out of each pack (or to make it easier 10). If 7 out of the 10 seeds germinate, the germination rate is 70%, and so on.  Ann Killen suggests putting saved seeds in airtight containers and storing them in the crisper drawer of the refrigerator. The seeds will last much longer this way.

Potting Shed Creations also carry seed collections of heirloom Tomatoes and heirloom flowers called Pocket Gardens and can be ordered online at www.pottingshedcreations.com.

The Seed Savers Exchange has a very good supply of many great hand-me-down seeds at www.seedsavers.org with lots of historical information offered about flowers and seeds. 

Immigrant’s coming to America were known to sew seeds into the hems of their dresses as one way to get their seeds here. Interesting, I can picture my Polish Babci (Bop-chi) bringing her seeds over the ocean wrapped carefully in her best kerchiefs to start a garden in the new world. I only hope that some of the heirlooms she brought with her are grown in my gardens today.

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Autumn =
Lots of Activity In The Garden



Prepare Now For Spring

Now that autumn is fast approaching, there are many things that can be accomplished to get the garden ready for next spring. Fall is one of the best times for planting new perennials, shrubs, trees, renewing garden soils and planting spring flowering bulbs. Good preparation and planning will ensure a beautiful spring. It will also give the trees, shrubs and perennials an excellent start for next years growing season.

Soil Preparation

Soils can be amended by adding lots of compost and manure into the top 3” of soil when preparing a new garden for planting. Preparation for a new landscape can be done at this time and plans drawn up during the cold winter months for next spring, which breaks things down for the do-it-yourself homeowner. Be sure that any new planting is watered well going into the cold winter.

With established perennial gardens, a two to three inch layer of compost or manure can be dressed over the top of the soil. If decorative mulch is used, pull it away from the garden to the edge and add the composted material around the perennials and shrubs being carful not to let the compost touch the perennial crowns, then pull the mulch back in place. This will add slow release of nutrients, help fora good root system an add texture for good drainage, which are all important to a healthy garden.

Winter Protection

Any new planting this year will need winter protection during the first year from very cold periods of winter. The new roots have not yet anchored the plant into the soil. Each time the ground freezes and thaws; it will push the plant out of the ground, thus freezing the roots. Winter protection can be a four to six inch layer of oak leaves, (not maple, they tend to dry flat and block water from getting to the plants), straw (not hay because of weeds) or Pine boughs cut into 2 to three foot lengths for acid loving perennial trees and shrubs. This natural material will block the sun from warming the soil during periods of thaw and the plants will be safe from the frost heaves.

If a plant does get pushed out of the ground, do not try to push it back into the ground as this can damage the root system. A shovel full of compost, sand or anything organic that is handy over the top of the plant will help keep the plant safe until spring when it can be replanted into the ground properly.

Choosing Healthy Spring Flowering Bulbs

Planting spring flowering bulbs is one of my favorite things to add into the landscape. Choosing healthy bulbs is important. Most bulbs, tubers and corms should be firm (not mushy) when handling and free of any large spots or mold. One exception to this rule is the grape hyacinth or Muscari because the bulb is fairly soft. 

A pointed tip always faces up when planting, however, with many bulbs it is hard to figure out which is the top and which is the bottom. If at all in doubt, plant the bulb sideways and nature will take over. Using bulbs that naturalize such as Narcissus, Lilium and Muscari are good for perennial gardens. Plant short-lived bulbs like Tulips in areas that can be re-planted or an annual garden so as not to disturb the perennial roots every time they need to be replaced. Crocus and Gallardia (snowdrops) are wonderful planted in drifts in a lawn. Again, be sure to water the area well into the fall for a good head start.

 Protecting the newly planted bulbs from animals that will eat them over the winter months is tricky business. Cages can be used to protect the bulbs underground from voles, squirrels and chipmunks but attention must be paid to the size holes in the cage as smaller animals can get into them. A coffee can with the top and bottom cut out will work or sharp pea stones placed around the bulbs will deter many voles from digging in the area. Deer are another big problem with gardens, however, unless the plants are toxic, a deer will eat just about anything when it is starving during the winter months, even bark off trees. Daffodils, Lily-of-the-Valley and Snowdrops are a few spring flowering bulbs that deer will not eat because they are toxic.

Planting Shrubs,  Trees and Planning Ahead

Roses should be given attention by placing some good compost over the bottom canes and the grafted area near the bottom for protection. Roses are heavy feeders and the nutrients will slowly feed the plant through the winter months. Once the Rose starts to send out new growth in the spring, uncover the canes carefully.

Planting trees in the fall is very good. The tree is going dormant and can concentrate on growing new roots instead of starting new growth above the ground and keeping leaves healthy. Proper planting is important for the tree to be healthy for a long life. The hole should be two times the size of the root ball or pot that the tree is currently planted. A mixture of peat moss, compost and good soil should be slowly placed back into the hole after the tree has been planted and water added. This will help keep air pockets from forming around the roots. Remove any burlap, wire or plastic from the root area before planting. The tree has a “flair” at the bottom of the trunk and this should remain above the ground. A tree planted too deep will struggle. When the hole has been completely filled in, tamp the area gently, do not use a foot to push the soil down. If any support is used, be sure it is removed after six months to assure the tree can support itself.

Good Planning will assure that your landscape with be its best next spring. A beautiful show after a long winter is a most rewarding sight not only for the gardener but to all who are lucky enough to see the show!

--TPW

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Astilbe is a colorful addition to a shady spot.

Challenge A Shade Garden With Color and Texture

 

 

 It used to be that in a shade garden, green was the dominant color.  Dull shade gardens have been upgraded and will pop with whites, variegated foliage and colorful blooms when planned right.  A beautiful moon garden will illuminate the evening while colorful plants liven up a shady area for daytime viewing. Fern gardens are ever popular in the shade with the help of Japanese Painted Fern.

 

 

Spring flowering bulbs and perennials are the first additions to the shade garden. Hyacinthoides hispanica, Spanish Bluebells,  bloom in blue, pink and white and the Fritillaria meleagris will liven up the front of a garden with petite bell shaped checkered blooms in white or maroon.  Hyacinthoides can be planted in the back of the garden because it is one of the first plants to bloom and the spent foliage can be strategically hidden by later emerging plants. Galanthus, Snowdrops, be planted in groups and will naturalize so later on in several season the garden will have quite a show of these fragrant tiny blooms very early in the spring. Perennials favorites like Hosta can be the “bones” of the garden. Other spring blooming perennials such as Dicentra, Bleeding Hearts, will bloom for up to three weeks in the garden in pink or white. There are shorter varieties of this perennial that will not take up as much space such as the Dicentra luxuriant, which have beautiful fern-like foliage, and petite heart shaped flowers in pink or white varieties. Pulmonaria ‘Mrs. Moon’ will be the show off with flowers in blue and pink together on one plant. The foliage speckled and is good for shaking up a shady area through the entire growing season.

 

 Once spring has past and the summer garden starts to grow, Astilbe is a beautiful flowering perennial with red, pink or white plumes that will add some height to this area. Lady Ferns and Japanese Painted Ferns will bring the shade garden out of the darkness during the day and catch the eye of passers by with the foliage. Violets, Toad Lilies and Hemerocallis, Daylilies,  in colorful varieties will fill up the summer garden and add colors from yellow, orange, pink to red. I have fallen in love with the variety H. ‘Hello Dolly’ as the crimson red flowers with a yellow throat bloom from early summer right into the fall in my gardens. 

 

Late summer going into the fall is special, as we want to have a grand finale for the end of our very short growing season here in Connecticut. The Oriental Lily ‘Casa Blanca’ will provide the fireworks for part shady gardens and these huge, fragrant white blooms will not be forgotten all winter. Casa Blanca Lilies are easy to plant in the spring or fall and will start a show in late summer. The Climbing Hydrangea is a very good perennial for a backdrop in the shade garden. It climbs a wall or will cover over an unsightly area. This is when shade tolerant Annuals will fill in for instant color. Pansies, Coleus, Impatiens, Browallia and Tuberous Begonias in some of the brightest, boldest colors you’ve ever seen! One of my favorites, Wishbone Flowers can be added and fill in the shade garden with rainbows of color from mid-summer on. More formal designs can be accomplished for the tidy gardener. Shade gardening can be a challenge, but with the right planning in these areas, the results will not only be satisfying but electrifying! Listed below are some shade tolerant and bright shade plants as suggestions for adding texture and color to the landscape.

 

 Groundcovers for shade including Asarum (Wild Ginger) can convert an area that is not so much of a garden as it is an area that grass will not grow well in. Pachysandra and Lamium will keep an area around a tree neat where no mowing is required. Vinca minor (Periwinkle) has 2” blue blooms and English Ivy fill areas nicely in-between shrubs and will tolerate shade very well.

 

Spring Bulbs and Perennials:

    Fritillaria meleagris, Galanthus or Snowdrops, Hyacinthoides hispanica or Spanish Bluebells, Lily-of-the-Valley, Cyclamen, Leucojum or Snowflake and Scilla or Squill and Columbine, Dicentra spectablilis or Bleeding Heart, Dicentra luxuriant, Solomon’s Seal, Hellebore or Lenten Rose, Lamium or Deadnettle, Pulmonaria ‘Raspberry Splash’ & ‘Mrs. Moon’, Heuchera or Coral Bells, Digitalis or Foxglove and the Lady Slipper Orchid or Cypripedium

 

Summer:

     Astilbe, Hemerocallis or Daylily, Violets and Pansies, Japanese Painted Ferns, Asarum, Pachysandra, Vinca minor, Sedum, English Ivy, Lilium martagon, Fuchsia. Asiatic Lilies, Coleus, Impatiens, Browallia, Lobelia Aristolochia or Dutchman’s Pipe and Begonias

 

Fall:

     Oriental Lilies, Climbing Hydrangea, Clematis paniculata or Fall Blooming Clematis, Violas or Pansies

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This patriotic garden will fill out wonderfully
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Show American Pride With a Patriotic Garden

(Danbury News Time 6-29-06)

   Independence Day is just around the corner. Bold red, white and blue in the landscape is a great way to show our American spirit as well as add lots of color. This year, the Durante home will sparkle with these symbolic colors in a patriotic theme garden to honor our Son who is currently serving with the 1/25 Marine Charlie Co. in Iraq.

   Annuals are great for a "theme" garden because they will bloom throughout the entire growing season; however, perennials can achieve the same effect for shorter periods of time. Annuals that are compact and will stay in place are a good choice. A blended garden of both annuals and perennials will enhance each other at different times through the growing season. Perennials that have a long bloom time work well.

   The design I created is easy to accomplish in one day and should fill in quickly with proper care. Full sun is required for this annual garden, which means at least 4-6 hours per day. The annual Salvia in bright red will bounce off of a white star created in the middle of this 15-foot circular garden. A luminescent dark navy blue from the tiny annual Lobelia flowers accompanied by annual ageratum in blue will add just the right patriotic colors. The plants start out small (pictured) but will fill in quite nicely.

   Start by mapping out a star using chalked construction string to make the lines strait. White earth used for swimming pool filters is used or a field lining chalk to fill in the star works fine and will stay put even after rain. Use seven to eight plants of the annual blue lobelia in-between each space of the star and several at each point until a complete circle is formed. Fill in gaps with the fluffy blue Ageratum. Red Salvia is planted on the outside of the circle with each plant given enough space to spread out. I used 1 flat of each plant (approx. 48 of each) to make this garden. (hint) A good practice for nice forming annuals is to pinch off the first flowers so the plants will concentrate on forming roots and a fuller plant.

   Containers filled with the snow white Calibrachoa to each side of the garden will be just the right accent. Compare different shades of white flowers when choosing for best results. The perennial bleeding heart in pristine white dangling over dark blue Japanese iris’ and a bright red Chinese tree peony is a spectacular sight to see in an early summer garden. Bright shade gardens can show just as much patriotism with red white and blue impatiens, which come in many shades of these colors. A simple design of annuals can really show off American pride and enhance a shady spot.

   On Mother’s Day this year (rain) I planted a large border of yellow marigolds to line the entire perennial border of my home symbolizing Colt’s safe return home. The star garden represents the symbol of a home where one is serving in the war effort. Peace, for me, is found by working in the garden. Tilling soil, getting my hands in the earth, pulling weeds in the drizzling rain. Keeping busy at all times is best. Planting the beautiful bright colors of our American Heritage may seem like just another project, but to me each and every step of the process will be special this year. The most stressful moments of my life are in the here and now as a Mother who's only wish at this time is to see my Son safe and sound at home after his tour in Iraq. I know there are others out there and I would love to see the beautiful pictures of your gardens in red, white and blue standing out and showing how proud you are of your loved ones and the United States of America! Send your snapshots to me below and tell me about your gardens. I would love to hear about your war heroes. God Bless America!

  

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Bold & Beautiful Begonias

 

 

 

The Begonia is a most versatile annual for adding bright color and unusual foliage to shady spots indoors our out. Begonias grow wild in Africa, South America, Central America and Tropic Asia. These beauties are named after a French governor in the Caribbean, Michael Begon who had an interest in the plants after conducting a botanical survey in an established French colony. Since their introduction in England in 1777, there are thousands of Begonias to choose from. Careful cultivation has brought larger and more colorful flowers as well as interesting foliage and fragrance.

 

There are Tuberous Begonias, shiny wax Begonias (which can tolerate more sunshine), upright and trailing Begonias with many intermediate varieties. These delicate plants also have a wide range of foliage as well as blooms. Speckled angel wings, dark burgundy or shiny lopsided leaves are only a few mentioned. Tuberous Begonias are spectacular in large containers. Multiple plants dressing up a front doorway or a hanging from a porch is wonderful place for planting.

 

Annual Begonias can be used in perennial border to formalize the garden. The wax begonia ‘Prelude White’ keeps the perennial garden neat, interesting and filled with tiny clam like blossoms over nice looking curved foliage that almost wraps around each bunch of flowers.  Plant this variety in containers with Coleus and they will compliment each other very well. This type of begonias is used for forming many kinds of art patterns as it will stay in place and have continuous flowers for the growing season. In-between a two-garage door frame is a fabulous place to put a large container filled with speckled leaved varieties and tiny fairy-like flowers overflowing and the large bold blossoms of the Blackmore and Langdon seedling begonias.

 

Tuberous On Top©  B. ‘Pink Halo’ is outstanding with clean white flowers and ruffled, deep pink edging. B & L© B. ‘Orange Cascade’ is another very bright and attractive hanging form of begonia. For those who favor the more subtle shades, there is the Scentiment©  B.‘Sunrise’ or B. ‘Blush’. Growers have managed to breed fragrance into these last two varieties. Some named varieties of tuberous begonias can get pricy but, the tubers can be saved and started early each year with some special care. The tuber will grow larger, allowing for future divisions.

 

Begonias are easy to care for in containers and flower boxes. Start with a good container mix and an urn or planter that has good drainage. Begonias need evenly moist soil but resent being soggy all of the time.  The plants will do well with little care of pinching and deadheading in a bright shady location such as a porch or a north side of a home where there is bright light but no direct sun. The plants tend to flower less if placed in too much shade. Happy Begonias will form lush foliage and sprout many flower buds through the entire growing season. The blooms are breathtaking at times.

 

Tubers can be started in late winter indoors in a 4” container. Transplant the growing begonia in a larger pot at least once before planting outdoors. Place outdoors in the ground or containers when the soil temperatures warm to at least 70 degrees. Again a bright shady spot is best for these beautiful begonias.

 

White Flower Farm in Litchfield, Connecticut has a nice choice of tuberous begonias to offer as well as the California seed begonias. Tubers are best purchased by mail order and should be started while waiting for spring to arrive in late winter for a show stopping shade garden every year.

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Annuals vs Perennials

What to plant this spring

 

 

 

 

 

   When starting new garden or planning additions to an established one, what is better to use, annuals or perennials? Annuals will bloom for the entire growing season, however, need to be re-planted each year for a successful show.

     

     Perennials should grow back bigger and better with each growing season. The downside of having only perennials is most will only bloom for two to three weeks a year, which can leave a garden very green at times. With careful planning, a perennial garden can bloom through the entire growing season. Perennials require more maintenance and attention to thrive but well worth the effort over time.

    

     The structure of a garden will need to be established by perennials. The foundation can be evergreen or deciduous. Perennials will support this function and keep a similarity and  form to the established garden.

 

Herbaceous and evergreen perennials

 

     Some perennials will die all the way back to the ground each year (herbaceous) and hibernate under the soil. These perennials are very good for areas that are exposed sites or will go through a lot of punishment over the winter months. Herbaceous Peonies are beautiful, bushy perennials that tuck away to sleep for the winter and come back to fill in the garden each year with their beautiful foliage and sweetly scented flowers.

    

     Herbaceous perennials can save a garden from being destroyed on very bad winters. Places directly to each side of a front door stoop and around driveways where heavy snow is often plowed and shoveled in large amounts are trouble spots. Windy sites, foot traffic, animals, are some other trouble spots. 

 

     Evergreen perennials will show themselves through some of the toughest New England weather. Armeria rubra grows green grass-like mound all through the winter and in spring it sends out beautiful spikes of pink globe-like blossoms that last for weeks. This is a wonderful evergreen perennial for the edge of a border planted in clumps of at least three plants.

 

     Herbaceous and evergreen perennials will need division every two to three years to keep them a manageable and healthy. I do not recommend fertilizing any newly planted perennials for the first year as this may cause problems with the plant establishing a good root system. Get the soil in good shape by adding lots of aged manure, compost and natural additives before planting a new bed.

 

     Patience is the key to growing perennials, as the first years may not show even one bloom. This is natural and to force the perennial into blooming by giving the plant more nutrients will make the plant weak. During times of stress such as drought and hard winters, the perennial may not live.

 

 

Annuals are delightful

 

    Annuals will complete a life cycle in one growing season. They will bloom through the entire summer with the proper care. Using annuals as solid borders or a planted specimen can sparkle any garden and are wonderful for the homeowner that likes to change the theme and colors each year.

 

     Annuals have shallow root systems and most need water and fertilizer more often to thrive. Some annuals will re-seed and come back again the following year but are unreliable. Fertilizing regularly will keep annuals healthy and strong for a great performance.

 

     Shade gardens can stand out by using annuals. A mass planting of Impatiens ‘walleriana’ under the shade of a red maple is most attractive. Theme gardens will sparkle with color such as a patriotic garden filled with red white and blue annuals.

     

      Annuals can be used in areas that will need to be cleared and out of the way once the fall arrives. Tender bulbs such as the giant leaved Colocasia are wonderful around above ground swimming pools and the plant looks very tropical. Once fall arrives and the pool must be covered, it is a much easier job with nothing in the way around the pool area.

 

     Crocosmia ‘Lucifer’ has striking red drooping flowers that will attract hummingbirds and butterflies from afar. Gladiolas are an inexpensive and easy addition to a cutting garden. Cut dahlias, gladiolas and fragrant freesia mixed with perennial treats make for a beautiful display on a table. Tender bulbs need to be carefully dug up and stored each fall or can be replanted each year. 

 

Living together in harmony

 

    What happens when a perennial garden fails to fill in for reasons that we cannot control? A late frost can damage tender flower buds just as a plant is set to bloom. A wet, cloudy and cool summer can cause the perennials to stop blooming or not at all. Drought will make many perennials go dormant to save themselves. Annuals will come to rescue the day. Pretty pansies love the cool weather. Drought tolerant annuals such as Nasturtium or cleome planted among the perennials will save the garden from looking bare and dreary.

 

     When a perennial is sadly lost there can be a large gap in the border which annuals come to fill in, if only for a short time. Annuals may be planted all through the growing season but perennials should be planted in the spring or early fall, not suring the heat of the summer months.

 

     

     Each year a garden will go through changes with new growth and mature withe seaon. The plant will become larger and take up more space in a border. During this time of growth, a perennial garden can look a bit thin. Planting annuals such as dwarf dahlias, portulaca and cosmos will brighten up the garden while the new perennials are work on establishing a good root system.

 

     Once the foundation fills in every nook and cranny, annuals will not be needed as much unless the gardener wants to use them as a border to frame out the garden. Empty spaces left by spring flowering bulbs is a good place for annuals to grow in harmony with the perennials. Another way to add annuals into the landscape is by using large containers placed all through the perennial border overflowing with color. In all cases annuals will enhance the perennial border but will not take away from the beauty of the perennial blossoms.

 

     This spring use your creative sense and think about what kind of time you will have to spend in the garden. Annuals (and container plants) will have lots of color and need to be watered often if there is no rain. An established perennial garden should do well with minimal care.

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Winter Thoughts from TPW:

 Edging and Boundaries

 

  When late winter brings a welcoming thaw, look at the landscape and see how the garden becomes a part of the rest of the yard. Does is flow freely into the grass or is there a barrier built up so that it will define the garden independently from the grasses and trees?

 

     Edging a garden is a very personal choice. Some prefer to have a soft entry into the lawn while others want the dressed up version to show off their cherished perennial gardens. This is also the time of year when changes can easily be made to the lines by cutting them out with a shovel or edging tool. The perennial garden is still dormant and the border is much easier to see.

 

     Imagination can be tested with the use of bricks, stones and many other discarded items. Formal granite edges can show one up a walkway safely or short iron fencing will keep feet from intruding into a formal perennial border. Natural resources such as sliced wood discs or pre-made scalloped terra-cotta brick edging will all define the garden and sketch the line from a garden to the lawn area or path. Recycled rubber materials have even been developed to place right on the ground to act as an edge.

 

      Edges drawn in the soil at a slight curve will help soften the foundation lines of the home. Strait lines for more formal gardens may use iron fencing or other hardscape materials.  Many gardeners prefer a more natural approach to define a shady garden edge with ground covers such as Pachysandra, English Ivy or Vinca vines with their periwinkle flowers in mid spring. The garden will fade out as it meets the lawn area. This kind of effect takes a bit more time to fill in but is less maintenance.

   

     One of the first chores of early spring is to define the edges of the perennial gardens. Edging can be as simple as digging a shallow ditch and filling in with decorative mulch. Check these lines, define them, clean them up and ready them for another growing season.

 

     Begin a new garden or extend a new edge to a garden by using a hose, twine or rope and “drawing” a line to a preferred style. Look at the new edge for a day or two before actually digging it out to make sure it feels just right. Many times there is a need to tweak the design for one reason or another before the final decision is made. I prefer using a spade and a hand trowel to dig out garden edges by hand each spring and mid-summer to freshen things up. 

 

      Just by re-defining edges, the garden looks fresh and new. Dig a 4 to 6 inch deep line and push it into the garden. A hand trowel is used to run across the new edge a few times to smooth out uneven lines left by a spade. Rake out the soil upturned into the garden and clean any rocks or debris left behind. When the finished lines are done it will make the difference between night and day.

 

     Follow up later in the spring with a fresh layer of mulch or fluff out the old material. Winter tends to compact mulch and loosening it up will help water reach the soil and roots underneath. Be careful when working in the dormant area so as not to pull out the perennial roots.

 

      Voila! A major improvement has been made to ready your garden for a new season.

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Streptocarpus "Yumpin Yimini"
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Cape Primroses

 A Blooming Jewel for Winter

 

 

 

     Streptocarpus caulescens or cape primrose is a beautiful and unique plant that can be grown indoors on a bright windowsill in winter. This plant will bloom profusely all season long if kept in the proper conditions. It  has oblong, green textured leaves with fine hair that will hang over the side of the pot while a most delightful bonnet-like flower stands on a taller leafless stem. Hybridizers have made these plants into double-petal and two-toned jewels that will cease to amaze one all winter long with its endless energy. Bright pinks like the S. ‘Pink Surprise’ and darker red varieties like the S. ‘Cherry Pie’ with a velvet like 1 ½ inch blooms are there to cheer and take away the winter blahs.

 

      Dr. Ralph Robinson, Owner of Robs Violets, New York will tell you how beautiful and interesting the Streptocarpus is. This plant is great for the winter and will tolerate cooler temperatures a bit more than it’s cousin, the african violet.  Robinson is a breeder of the world famous ‘Bristol’ series of streps in a rainbow of different colors. Not only does his greenhouse grow the Streptocarpus, they specialize in hybridizing and are well known for their breeding of the ‘Ma’s’ and ‘Rob’s’ series of african violet hybrids. Their website has nice selection of the Bristol series as well as other varieties to choose from at www.robsviolet.com. His plants are shipped in nursery pots and are a very fair price. A collection of 10 plants will run about 30.00 plus shipping and handling.

 

       To grow these easy to care for plants, use an african violet mix to pot up the plant or make your own loose porous potting mix by blending 2 parts sphagnum peat moss to 1 part vermiculite or perlite with 1 part soil and 1 part clean sand all mixed together. Streps prefer small pots for growing which will encourage more flowering. “Keep soil the moist but not wet or what we call, happy feet” as Dr. Robinson says. Be careful not to let the plant completely dry out as the plant shows stress quickly.  Try not to let the pot sit in water as the plant also resents constant wet conditions and may cause root rot. Streps will do well on a south or southeast-facing window in the winter or a place that receives bright sunlight. 12-14 hours under grow lights are also fine to keep this plant happy and in bloom. In the summer, the plant needs to be out of direct sunlight or the delicate leaves may burn. Cool temperatures don’t seem to bother this plant and it likes a house that keeps the thermostat down and will flower well all through the winter months. Fertilize with an african violet food, peter’s houseplant food or almost any fertilizer for house plants cut down to 1/8th of its strength. Use this mixture each time the Strep is watered. This will keep the plant fed and in a healthy condition over the winter months. Try not to splatter the leaves with the water mixture or it may cause burn spots on the leaves. If a single leaf gets very large or shows signs of brown edges, cut it off at the base with a sharp blade or shears to prevent bruised leaf edges. This helps to promote flowering and keeps the plant neat and tidy. Cape Primroses may go dormant or stop growing if left to dry completely out. Try not to let the soil become too dry in-between watering.

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Witch Hazel branch in bloom
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Forcing bare branches into winter bloom

 

    Late winter is a great time for pruning branches from the forsythia, weeping willow, cherry and apple and many other early blooming trees for a spectacular arrangement indoors.  Flowering almond (Prunus triloba) branches will bloom indoors with their beautiful delicate pink pom pom blossoms, witch hazel (Hamamelis) may benefit from a little bit of pruning or thinning. The unusual yellow or rusty red flowers will make for an interesting flower arrangement. Bring these branches indoors and watch them grow. Twigs from a Maple bloom with tiny little leaves. If children want to have a go at this great forcing technique, pussy willows will bring their catkins to life just for them. The best branches to force are trees and shrubs that will normally bloom early in the spring such as the crabapple, forsythia and pussy willows. It takes at least six weeks of cold temperatures for the branches to be ready for forcing indoors.

 

   A warmer daytime temperature is the best time to cut and force branches. Venture outside and find the tree or shrub to prune. Be sure not to cut a shrub too much in one spot so when the spring arrives it won’t be bare on one side. Check each specimen to see if the buds have started swelling, this is a sure sign they are ready to force indoors.

 

     Picking unusual branches that are crooked, gnarled or spiraled will add more interest to the arrangement. Soak the cut branches in tepid water for about an hour, this will loosen up the buds that have been closed tightly for the winter and prepare them to open.

 

     Use a vase that will keep the arrangement from toppling over. Remember that at first the arrangement will only look like a bunch of sticks in a jar so use an interesting vase or container such as a sugaring bucket.  If you have extra branches, bundle them up and put the bundle in a cool, protected place with a bucket of water such as a garage or shed. They will keep for at least a week or longer if stored properly.

 

      Fill the vase with room temperature water and arrange your branches to show off your artistic side. Place in a cool bright area out of direct sun and be patient.  Both the experienced gardener and children will have fun watching the tiny buds open into small leaves, cherry blossoms or fuzzy little catkins.

 

     Fruit blossoms like the flowering crabapple (Malus florbunda) will bloom for at least a week if they are kept in a cool area. Take notes on which branches looked best for next harvest of interesting branches.. Try branches that you would not think can be beautiful and you may be surprised.

 

  Late february is the best time to choose branches from the forsythia, spring blooming witch hazel, white forsythia, pussy willow, wild cherry, maple, birch, bittersweet and weeping willow. Wait until march for fruit trees, redbud and spirea because the buds are not quite ready until a bit later in the winter. 

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M. 'Raspberry Wine' is a showstopper
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M. didyma is a small white variety
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Monarda is Mint

(Danbury News Times)

 

Monarda, commonly known as Bee Balm, is a unique and versatile perennial for a home gardener. Its blooms attract hummingbirds into the yard and will introduce height, bright colors. It is also a good companion to many of our hardiest border plants. It is a member of the mint family which can be seen by the square stem and a fragrance very apparent once the foliage is touched or cut.

 

Monarda is native to North America in woodland areas and dry prairies. The Oswego Indians demonstrated to the early immigrants how to use bee balm in a tea to help with fever, chills and inflammations (Oswego tea). Some tribes used a cold extract to help with back aches and others to get the heart rate moving. Gardener’s have discovered that the flowers and leaves are used by many herbalists as an infused tea for many ailments or for just the wonderful flavor when combined with lemon. The dried flowers and leaves can also be used in fragrant sachets.

 

Bee balm flowers are very different from most perennials. The blooms have tubular petals that poke out from the center of every side forming a firework like display. Nice foliage takes on the tinge of the flower colors except for the white variety which has much brighter green foliage. The early blossoms look as if they are wearing a silly court jester costume. Many times Monarda will send out a second bloom right on top of the original flower and is marvelous with this two-story touch.

 

Monarda holds blossoms which will keep bright color in the border for long periods of time. Smaller varieties such as the M. didyma have bright white 2-inch blossoms with numerous flowers and can withstand some of the toughest dry conditions. It is a wonderful companion to the purple coneflower which has not failed to look sterling each year. M. ‘Raspberry Wine’ has larger 4-inch flower heads and is outrageous in large clumps. Raspberry boasts 4 to 5 inch flower heads that are beautiful paired up with the black eyed, bright yellow flowers of the Rudebeckia. The daring red M. ‘Cambridge Scarlet’ mixed into a border adds height and very bright color.

 

Growing Tips

 

Monarda is tolerant of many conditions. Foliage is darker and richer if planted in full sun, a good humus-rich soil that is well drained. Once the perennial is established, it is very drought resistant and does not need to be fertilized to thrive. Plant this perennial in full sun or a partially shaded area. It will look wonderful all alone in large clumps or mixed into a perennial border. This plant can tend to spread from place to place with a wandering root system and may need to be curbed each year but well worth the effort to keep it in place.

 

Monarda is sold early in the spring as a root division which can be planted 3 to 4 inches below the soil level. Potted plants are sold locally in many garden centers in a variety of colors. The purple M. ‘Parienacht’ is beautiful with the light lavender blossoms; however, I have found that they are short lived in many gardens here in Connecticut.      

Readers have written to say that it will just disappear after one or two seasons. I have replaced the purple in my gardens several times and found it may not be as hardy as the others. There is also a M. ‘Croftway Pink’ and M. ‘Fishes’ which are on the pink/purple side that are known to be hardy to the Northeast.

 

As long as the bee balm gets 4 hours or more of sun per day, it will flower just as well. Too much shade will cause tall plants that may fall over in a hard rain. Powdery mildew can become an unsightly problem if the plants are too wet or if there is a lot of rain for the season. This can be an esthetic problem but will not hurt the plant as it will recover the following year. Otherwise Monarda is one very tough perennial for the home garden.

 

Monarda Herb Tea

 

Gather flowers and leaves while in bloom. Tie up bundles and place in a paper bag to let dry in a well ventilated area. (Be sure that you have not used pesticides on plants that you want to use in tea.)

 

Use a tea ball to hold the leaves or just place flowers and leave in a small teapot and strain before serving. Tea can also be made into iced tea with a sprig of mint leaves added for a nice touch.

 

Steep one teaspoon (1tsp) of dried tops or leaves per one cup of water. Add lemon and sweetener to taste. Enjoy not only your beautiful bee balm in the garden but a spot of iced tea too!

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A Jewel in the Woods

(Danbury News Times) 

 

Pretty wild Impatiens grow in many parts of Connecticut woodlands. They sprawl along creek beds and can find a home just about anywhere in landscapes. These common plants are known as Jewelweed or Touch-me-Not. Beautiful buttery yellow blossoms of the I. padilla and the spotted orange flowers of I. capensis have pursed pouches and horns protruding from the bottom side. It is a delicate plant that will form peapod shaped seed-heads that fling out seeds when they are touched, hence the common name. Children love making the “pop” into a fun game. The seeds are tough to save, however the plant can self sow itself quickly.

 

Hummingbirds find the blooms of the orange spotted variety irresistible and can be watched returning again and again to their favorite patch of Jewelweed growing nearby. Deer also seem to like the fleshy plants as a tasty treat. this fertile plant may be a bother to some at times as they can become invasive, however, Jewelweed can be a cure sent from heaven for those who experience skin irritations.

 

Medicinal Uses of Jewelweed

 

 

American Indian remedies use a quick application to the affected area exposed to the oils of poison ivy as well as the bright orange flower of the plant as a dye. Jewelweed can relieve most symptoms of skin irritations such as Poison Ivy, Poison Oak, Stings and Sunburn pain. This common plant can even stop one from getting the nasty rash if used just after exposure. I have tried this method often with very good results. If applied right after exposure no signs of the rash develops and if a poultice is applied after rash erupts, the itchiness is relieved. Chinese herbalist have used Jewelweed for a variety of swelling, bruises and rheumatism and as an antimicrobial agent, however, there are no published reports on these later issues.

 

Identification

 

I do not recommend cultivating this plant in gardens because they can become invasive. I also recommend that you ask an expert before trying to find Jewelweed if you don’t know how to identify it.

 

There is a vast a plan in nature. With troublesome plants such as stinging Nettle, Poison Ivy and Poison Oak, it is not uncommon to find this cure growing nearby. The leaves are rounded, and the flowers are easily identified (pictured). Fleshy stems of the Jewelweed can be crushed in the hand and the juices rubbed onto the skin or a poultice made from the flesh of the stems and applied to the skin. Harvest several of the best plants, cut the stems into sticks and place them in a zip lock bag in a refrigerator. This quickly sooths sunburn and the Jewelweed will go to work with its healing properties. Jewelweed can last for about a week kept in an airtight container. Recipes are available online for home-made salves and ways of adding Jewelweed extract to soap and infused which hazel or vinegar spritzer for a longer storage life of this wonderful medicinal herb.

 

One of the best things about Jewelweed is that it blooms continually from summer into the fall in fertile, moist, alkaline soil. Even when most of the cultivated landscape plants begin to peter out, Jewelweed the pretty plants will keep on blooming. Partially shaded areas near water is where it can be found and forms a shallow root system which makes the plant easy to harvest. Swampy areas are also places the Jewelweed can be seen. I have found that jewelweed does not tolerate drought and will die back quickly when soil is dry. The plant itself is delicate and can be knocked down by heavy rainfall or walking.

 

Recipes for keeping Jewelweed as a handy first aid treatment

 

These recipes for using and preserving Jewelweed are available online. I generally use the freshly harvested plant right away. As always, ask your physician or herbalist before using. Anyone who spends time outdoors hiking or camping should have knowledge of this plants identification and use. It is readily available and can even help with stings.

 

Jewelweed Salve (has a shelf life for up to one year)

 

Warm one cup of vegetable oil of choice (olive oil is not recommended as it can burn). Add a handful (not too much) of cut stems of Jewelweed to the oil and simmer (do not boil). Strain out flesh of the stems. (strain all organic matter out as this can cause the salve to spoil if left in recipe) and add 1 oz of chopped beeswax while oils is still hot and mix together very well. Place in a refrigerator in small airtight containers that are portable to set and you now have enough Jewelweed salve to share with family and friends. Rub salve on areas affected by stings, poison Ivy and Oak and many other skin irritations

 

Jewelweed Lotion:

 

To make the lotion, get a bunch of jewelweed and put in a pot. Add water to cover, and simmer for about 30 minutes. Strain off the herb, pour the jewelweed juice into ice cube trays, and freeze. Store jewelweed cubes in freezer bags in your freezer, and use as needed either as a preventative or treatment.

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Asiatic Lilium
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Recurved Lilium
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The Beautiful Lily

(2007 Danbury News-Times)

 

 One of the easiest ways to add height and character to a perennial garden is by planting Lilies. The bulbs are simple to plant and many can be added for colorful blooms through our growing season in the fall or the spring. The lily is hardy to our cold winters; in fact, they need a cooling period to bloom properly. Here in Connecticut Lilies should return each year for an explosive blast of color from spring to late summer.

 

  The Lily can be planted in the early spring or in the fall and are available at both times of the year. Lilies can be grown just about anywhere in the garden, in a shrubby area, the perennial garden and even on display in containers wherever one wishes to show them off.  They are very useful planted in a cutting garden for fantastic indoor displays.

 

   There are hundreds of Lily varieties available at nurseries and mail order catalogs. I recommend ordering early for the best and largest of bulbs. The size varies from one variety to another. A healthy Lily bulb should look like plump scales that overlap each other until the bulb if formed. Some roots will be on larger bulbs at the base, but is not necessary to grow properly. Take care when purchasing late if there small stalks starting to grow. It is important to protect the new growth from breaking away from the bulb. The bulb should be firm, not soft or dry.

 

  The flowers of Lilies come in different shapes. There are Trumpets, Bowl shapes, re-curved petal that will reach all the way back like a butterfly and funnel shaped blossoms that will open slightly but not fully. We will explore the Oriental and Asiatic so as not to get too complicated.

 

Asiatic or Oriental? Which to choose?

 

 There are a few differences between the Asiatic and Oriental Lilium which will make it easy to choose where to plant them. By combining both, the perennial border will have blossoms through most of the season.

 

   Asiatic Lilies generally Bloom earlier in the year, from mid-to-late spring. One of the earliest being the Martagon Lily or Madonna Lily.  Many are trumpet shaped and have little or no fragrance. However, lots of hybrids have been developed to enhance these characteristics. These include the Candidum, American hybrids and Longiflorum hybrids. One favorite of mine is the Lilium speciosum rubrum. This year it has several small recurved blossoms that look down and are truly eye catching.

 

  Oriental Lilies may be some the most recognized because they have a very powerful scent that can carry long distances. One blossom can fill a room with sweet perfume when used as a cut flower. Most blossom later in the season from mid-to-late summer, sometimes even into early fall such as the sparkling white L. ‘Casa Blanca’. A very popular Oriental Lily, L. ‘Star Gazer’ has a dark fuchsia blossom speckled with black dots with and outer edged lined in white, which is a show stopper. ‘Oriana’ starts off as a blush pink bud that opens to surprise one with a creamy light orange/peach and very nice soft scent. The Oriental Lily flowers are very large bowl shaped bloom with beautiful color patterns.

 

Planting and Care of the Lily

 

   Most Lily bulbs can be planted in a full to partially shaded area. The soil does not have to be anything special but drain well in a place where water is not a problem. Some bulbs grow roots from the base of the stem. Plant each bulb six to eight inches below the soil as soon as they are purchased for the best results. Space each bulb at least 12-inches apart so they will each have enough room to mature with time. Taller varieties should be tied up with a sturdy stake before blossoms open to keep them erect. Heavy rain or the weight of larger blossoms may cause the tall stalks to bend or break off.  Lily bulbs planted in containers should, again, be well drained and at least 12” in diameter. I recommend using larger containers that are heavy with several bulbs planted in the same pot for an outstanding show near a doorway or patio.

 

   Lilies are very heavy feeders and will need to be fed on a regular schedule to keep the bulb strong and healthy. I recommend sprinkling a time released fertilizer right after planting, and early each spring. When cutting these beautiful flowers for arrangements, be careful not to cut more than one-third of the stalk as this will make the plant weak.

 

    After flowers have finished blooming, only cut off the spent flower and not the stalk. The bulb needs to rebuild itself for the next season of growth. Wait until the entire stalk turns brown in late fall before removing and cleaning the area up for the winter months. The stalk should break away very easily at this point. Good gardening practices by proper care and clean up of the lily beds in the fall will keep them healthy and strong.

 

   One pest that is important for a gardener to keep a lookout for is the Lily Leaf Beetle. This pest can damage an entire Lily garden in one spring. The beetle is very beautiful with a bright red body and black head and legs, but a pest indeed. You can find more information about the lily leaf beetle at the online Pest Handbook by the Connecticut Agricultural Experiment Station. Keeping the flower beds clean and free of debris is helpful in prevention of an infestation.

 

   Take a look at all of the beautiful varieties of Lily bulbs available this fall. Planting bulbs is an investment in the beauty of a future garden.

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Reiki and Gardening

A Holistic Approach

(News-Times Feb 22, 2007)

 

  The 2006 spring, summer and fall came in but left us with too much rain, sunlight was scarce at times and tough gardeners all over New England did some of their finest work.  Tomatoes were nice but many split because of the extra moisture. By keeping seeds up in mounds, potatoes grew well, however, many flowering shrubs and trees suffered from powdery mildew which one learns to reluctantly accept. Not bad for a Connecticut summer, just wet.

 

   A “new age” in garden practices is growing from organic food to heirloom varieties of seeds and plants being successfully brought back into home gardens. In New England, a gardener knows only Mother Nature has the last word. It does not matter how much one tills the soil or adds the best compost with loving hands, Mother Earth makes all the difference “weather”  we have an abundant crop of fresh food by the end of our short growing season, or not. Many indoor container plants struggle to make it through the winter in a dry heated homes or problem with pesky critters.

 

   It has been said that talking to plants is beneficial, how about Reiki? The word Reiki come from Japanese language with Rei meaning “all that is” and Ki meaning “life energy” or together a “universal life force energy”. Practitioners use this “energy” that flows through all living things for healing themselves and others as well. What one my not know is that Reiki can be used to help healthy plants grow too!

 

    Plants have been found to respond positively to this Reiki energy and can aid in helping plants thrive. Talking to them, sharing love, caring and attentiveness helps plants to grow healthy from seedlings, forming the root systems and well into blossom. Why not, it makes sense? Gardeners love the labor of tilling, planting, weeding and feeding. With caring hands most gardens can look wonderful each year. This is a form of Reiki; sharing ones love and energy with another form of life by careful cultivation is proof enough for me.

Let’s try it!

    

     This time of year it may not be too hard to find an ailing plant in the house. Or start with a healthy one too. I happen to be quite a brutal gardener because I will work with plants that thrive; however, will be the first to remove something that does not work well with me. There are some things that are just trouble, such as Spider Mites. A warm, dry home in the winter is a perfect setting for a spider mite convention.

 

   Make a special place designated for sick or ailing plants. It should have sunlight at least 4 hours per day for sun loving plants, cool but not cold temperatures and be where you will notice the plants every day. Use common sense such as watering regularly when the top 1” of soil feels dry to the touch, and cut back any dead or dying growth. Some plants may need almost everything trimmed back. This year it is a Passiflora (passion flower vine) is the subject, which needs just about the entire vine cut back. Mist the plant with a cold water bottle a little each day, especially if the problem is spider mites. Say a few kind words to them and touch them lightly by petting or patting to simulate the wind blowing outside. This helps the formation of stronger stems.

 

     Observe the plants to see if there may be a difference after two to three weeks of this “special” attention. Is there any new growth showing? Has the plant gotten sicker? Plants are living things that need this positive energy, especially in the winter months when there is little stimulation from the outdoors.

 

      I will bet that most plants that have any chance of surviving will make a great comeback with the extra care. A gardener will feel encouraged to make an extra effort when dealing with the winter blues while nursing some favorite plants back to health and help themselves feel better too! --TPW

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Chrysanthemums Bring Laughter and Happiness

(Danbury News Times 09/26/06)

 

 

  As fall fast approaches, the colors make themselves noticed almost overnight. The skirts of the trees start showing their truest colors, pumpkins ripen, harvest time begins and Chrysanthemums start showing up in grocery stores and garden centers, ready to bloom. Blossoms vary from plants that are filled with small 1-inch purple pom pom flowers, to  three-inch dainty daisy-like blooms and the much larger, more exotic hybrids. Chrysanthemums are so popular that even large 10”-12” potted plants have a reasonable prices so purchasing new varieties each year is not difficult. The secret to keeping these greenhouse grown mums perennial is to plant early and offer a good winter protection.

 

  Chrysanthemums originated in China where this beautiful plant was grown as an herb. Japan holds this flower in its original daisy form of very high regard and even has a celebration each year in honor of these flowers called “The Festival of Happiness”. Here in the United States the Chrysanthemum is considered one the most popular flowers of the fall season. These pretty herbs have been hybridized into many different shapes, sizes with colors ranging from white, pink, purple, red, orange and countless places in-between. Just walk through a nursery and one will find a new variety each year. Some varieties are not hardy to our cold winters so be sure to check the planting stick or ask the nursery if your choice of mum is hardy. Compliment the mums with annual zinnias and beautiful ornamental Kale for a fabulous fall display.

 

Purchasing Potted Mums

 

   If potted mums are purchased in the fall, the root systems of these greenhouse grown plants will be quite root bound and may have a hard time establishing roots in the ground. Get them planted in the ground as soon as possible. After removing the plant from its container, “tickle” the roots from the bottom and sides of the plant. I do not recommend fertilizing at this time of the year because plants are entering the dormant stage and getting ready for winter. Once the mums are settled, water them so there is no air pockets and firm up the area around the bottom without pressing too hard.

 

  Once the plant is dormant and frost is set in the soil for the winter, a four to six-inch layer of straw, oak leaves or handy loose organic material should be placed over the top of the area to keep the frost from pushing the root system out of the ground during the winter months. (This is a common occurrence after planting mums in the fall if protection is not used)

 

  From late the following spring until mid-July, pinch the fast growing Chrysanthemums as they get about 12” tall, back to half of that height so the stems will branch out. This makes for more flowers and stronger stems. If mums are left to grow on their own the stem may become very tall, bloom too early and fall over as a result of their heavy, hybrid blossoms. Stop pinching plants back by late July.

 

 Propagating Mums Is Easy

 

 

  My gardens are always on a tight budget and Chrysanthemums are one of the easiest plants to propagate. Plugs can be obtained from several nurseries just by asking, however, the plugs can be propagated very easily (if you already have some growing) at home with potting soil and seed trays left over from spring sowing. Kids will have fun and be rewarded with lots of small mum plants to put in the ground or share with loved ones.

 

  As mentioned above, hardy perennial Chrysanthemums should be pinched back several times during the growing season. The earliest cuttings can be used for starting many smaller mum plants. Prepare a seed tray by filling it with moistened potting soil and using a pen or pencil to poke a hole in each cell to make room for a stem.

 

  After pinching, collect the cut stems on a piece of newspaper. (Try not to touch the cut part of the stem with your hands.)  Take the top portion of the cutting in one hand and gently pull the bottom leaves off until there is at least 2” of bare stem. Place the new cutting into the prepared seed tray, one at a time in each seed cell. Snuggle stems in and place the entire tray in a bright shady area where there is no direct sun. Keep plugs moist but not soaked and in two weeks make a gentle tug on one of the stems to see if they have anchored in the soil. If so, start putting the new plants in a brighter area but not during the hottest time of the day. By four weeks time, roots should be showing out the bottom of the seed tray and are ready for planting.

 

   I recommend planting small plugs in the ground, mid-to late summer for a reliable perennial show each year. Place them in sets of three plugs so plants look larger or plant them in four to six-inch pots for gift giving. A quick gift idea is to place a small pot into the top of small cut out pumpkin for a wonderful table display. These plants will flower the same year, however plants will be compact. In following years the plants will grow to be much larger specimens. Bring laughter and happiness into you home and garden! May your garden be weed free for weeks at a time! TPW

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The Romantic Moon Garden

(Danbury News Times)

 

  At night, most gardens will sleep away and ready their flowers for the coming daylight. A Moon Garden awakens just as the sun goes down and can be seen from a distance as a gift of radiant light. White is the best and brightest flower color for a moon garden. Flowers that are pure white will make the moon garden stand out from the darkness, however, the iridescent tiny yellow flowers of the Coreopsis ‘Tickseed’ and shimmering blue of the annual lobelia work well at dusk. Perennials and annuals paired up together will compliment each other as well as fragrant additions to lure one closer to this nighttime treat. Most of the flowers in this plan are for gardens that have full sun or at least 6 hours of sunlight.

 

  Bulbs can be some of the earliest blooms to catch the eye. All of these bulbs can be planted in the fall for beautiful blooms next spring. Plant Narcissus ‘Ice Follies’ or the Poeticus variety of Narcissus ‘Actea’ a large white Daffodil in bunches of 4 or 5 bulbs will give just the right spring touch paired up with the Tulip ‘String Of Pearls’. Galanthus or Snowdrops planted by the handfuls as well as Crocus ‘Jeanne d’Arc’ and tiny white bunches of the Chionodoxa or Glory of the Snow will keep white flowers in drifts until the summer plants start to bloom. A specimen of Peony ‘Krinkled White’ smack dab in the center will introduce the summer garden.

 

  Moon Flowers are a vine and a member of the Morning Glory family. These large 4”-5” flowers will unwind its bloom at dusk and send out a sweet fragrance through the yard. Add pure white Bearded Iris ‘Immortality’ to the list of favorite white flowers in a moon garden.  Madonna Lilies in the background for height are beautiful. Dicentra luxuriant alba or white Bleeding Heart and Four-O’clocks that will open in the center of the garden when the sun goes down for a sparkle on a moonlit night. A border of the sweet perfumed Alyssum will frame the whites and bring them all together.

 

 Fall in a moon garden is filled with the Oriental Lilies such as the, ‘La Claridad’ and ‘Silver Elegans’ will be seen and their potent aroma is wonderful at night.  Clematis paniculata or Fall Blooming Clematis will climb over any white structure you may wish to add and the tiny white, fragrant flowers blanket the vine in fall. Phlox  ‘David’ and Echinacea ‘White Swan’ will have a long bloom until the end of the fall and look beautiful in the winter when the seed heads are covered in snow.

 

Using many varieties of white flowers or all one kind of white flowering plants will stand out in the night. Creating a moon garden with any white, light yellow, light pink flowers will show off personality plus!  Add a piece of statuary such as a birdbath and the winter garden will never be without character.  Place a sitting area or benches near so you will be able to relax, soak in the rays of the moon and add a little romantic feeling in the garden when shared it with others.

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Tea Time With Pansies

(The Danbury News Times)

 

Just looking at Violas can have a happy effect. Walk into a greenhouse of pansies with their smiling faces and one can’t help but be a bit more cheerful. Pull out the white gloves, set the pot on for tea and enjoy.

 

Violas are heirloom flowers. Johnny-jump-ups are one of the wild forms of violet as well as the one first known varieties. Pansies are the result of cultivation for many years in France from these wild forms of the Viola. The word Pansy is French for “thoughts” and “memories”.  V. ‘Strawberry Sundae’ has unforgettable beautiful large bloom with a perfect mixture of red and white swirled together.

 

Pansies have much larger flower, but are not as tolerant of our cold temperatures here in the Northeast. Violets are hardy here in our climate zone 5. Some violets do very well as a perennial in Connecticut gardens. The V. Rebecca is a beautiful white and yellow flower edged in purple, which will come back reliably each year.

 

A sure sign that summer is on the way are when we see the first pansies shining their pretty faces with bright purples, sunny yellows, sparkling reds and even crispy white varieties. I recommend growing them in containers so they can be used again in the fall. Compliment a spring garden with Pansies just as the tulips, crocus and daffodils start to fade away.

 

Dappled shade or bright shade is the secret to growing these easy to care for plants. Under a deciduous tree that is just sprouting its spring leaves is a perfect place for planting. Keep the soil moist but not wet and be sure the area or container is well drained. Pansies resent soggy soil and will quickly wilt. If the weather stays cool, the plants will thrive and bloom into the summer months.

 

Gardeners are discovering that Pansies are not finished by the end of spring. Fall is a great time to have plants re-bloom as the cooler temperatures return. Once pansies begin to bolt in the summer heat, cut the plants all the way back and set the containers in a shady place in the yard. Water regularly until the cool weather returns and the pansies are ready to bloom again.

 

Just imagine the V. ‘Jolly Joker’ as a perfect flower for the fall landscape with its bright orange petals and dark violet edging. These are the colors of fall as pansies stand far apart from the typical chrysanthemums for autumn.

 

Viola seeds can also be sprinkled in the garden by late spring to early summer for a fall bloom. Viola seeds can also be sown, germinate and grow well into the late fall. The foliage will stay evergreen and when spring arrives, the plants will come into full bloom earlier. The plants are acclimated to the cool temperatures and a stunning early show.

 

Johnny-jump-ups will re-seed in areas by popping their seedpods out over an area. The seedlings will sprout up just about anywhere in the garden and the lawn. Sprinkle these seeds into the lawn for early fall.

 

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Ask The Plant Whisperer...I'm Listening
(The Danbury News Times)




ALERT**Red Lily Leaf Beetle Infestation in Holland, Vermont 05/08

I have found many of these beetles in my lilies this spring.  Had a few last year but this year it seems that I pick them off my lilies every day.  They are ruining my lily beds. I live in Holland Vt.  If you should go to a VT map you will find Holland at the top of the map, center of the state on the Canadian border. This is the first time I have ever had a problem with any type of an insect in the 20 years that I have been living here. Will try organic methods but may have to go to Sevin.

Rachael

Answer:

Hello Rachael,

  You will have a problem as the Lily Leaf Beetle can destroy a Lily planting in a very short time. Bioneem seems to be one of the most effective ways to manage these nasty pests as well as picking them off as you have been doing. The beetle is bright red with a black head and will make a hissing sound when picked up.

  Here is a link for more information. Cleaning out the lily bed and discarding any affected bulbs, plants and above ground growth is very important, especially this fall when the eggs hibernate just under the soil and garden debris.

http://www.umassgreeninfo.org/fact_sheets/defoliators/lily_leaf_beetle.html

reply:I was at one of our local nurseries yesterday and was informed that two towns that are in  our a rural area are “infested’” with these bugs so my explain why some of them have arrived in my garden.  Our garden supply business does stock Neem




Question from Gladys in Louisville, KY
Would you please enlighten me on the reason my callibrachoa hybrid (superbells taquilla sunrise) are dying overnight.  This is a total puzzle as they seem hardy, blooming their heart out and overnight they are dead.  I love those flowers as they are beautiful and bloom so much.  I water them daily, they are in full sun for about 4 hours of the day.  I have a few of them left and I hold my breath every day when I wake up in fear that I have lost another one.
As much as I love them I am thinking of not planting them again next year.
Your help would be greatly appreciated
Gladys
Answer:
More than likely your problem is too much water in the soil as you have said that you are watering every day. These hybrid calibrachoa resent the soil being too wet. They will be ok for a time and then all of a sudden experience root rot. It is tricky because they will show the same symptoms as if the plant was too dry by wilting (hence we water them), but the roots are not getting enough oxygen from the wet soil. Try to let them dry out a bit before watering and this problem will stop. Good luck!

Question: Marilyn Matern in Newtown, CT about Lily Leaf Beetle

Can you tell me the best remedy of ridding my lilies of the red lily beetle.

They have destroyed several of my beautiful lilies.

Please advise. 


Answer:

The Lily Leaf Beetle arrived here in the US by accident with flowering bulbs and has moved into home gardens all over the east coast. The first confirmed lily leaf beetle in Connecticut was in August of 2001. 

The Lily Leaf Beetle is a rather beautiful insect, bright red with black legs and head, 1/4 to 3/8- inches long and will make a squeaky sound if lightly squeezed. Unfortunately, once the adults are spotted much of the damage has already taken place because the larvae is what does most of the damage to plants. This beetle is known to destroy whole plantings in just one season and will also dine on other favorite Lilies and plants such as fritillaria, bittersweet, nicotiana as well as the potato. Adult females can lay 450 eggs in one season on the underside of the host plants. The larvae looks like orange/yellow slugs with black heads and carry excrement on their backs. These voracious eaters will chew through leaves, stems and flowers and pupate in the soil.

Treating the problem should be done quickly. I do not recommend trying to save any of the plants that have been affected as this can spread the problem. Hand picking can be done by dropping larvae and leaves with the orange eggs on the underside into a bucket of soapy water treated with neem, but this is not for the faint hearted. Treat the area with Bioneem every five to seven days after spotting the larvae, which can be found at a local nursery. This will repel the adult beetle and kill the larvae. In the fall, make sure all debris is cleared away from this area after it has been treated and keep a close eye on the garden next spring for any emerging adults.

**It is important to report an infestation of the Lily Leaf Beetle to your local Cooperative Extension Service so this pest can be tracked. They will also be happy to give you more information about the Lily Leaf Beetle. TPW

Question: From Debra Parker in Ridgefield, CT about growing herbs

I can't seem to grow lemon verbena -- the leaves always fall off.  I am not sure how much water or care they want.  I am growing my herbs in med. size pots in my windows with full sun most of the day.  I have the same problems with growing mint and thyme.  Thanks for your advice.

Answer:

A windowsill herb garden is a great way to keep fresh herbs on hand and their fragrant leaves are wonderful.

  Most herbs do require a full day of sun (four to six hours per day) to grow properly.  If the leaves are turning yellow/black and falling off, overwatering is most likely the problem. Most herbs like soil on the dry side. Water lightly only when the soil is dry to the touch, especially if the container is much larger than the growing plant because it holds more water in the soil. If there is a saucer under the pot, check to see if there is water collecting at this point causing the soil to sit and become soggy. Herbs resent being wet all of the time and roots will quickly start to rot. Thyme should be treated in this same manner.

  Mint on the other hand will grow in just about any type of soil and may become invasive if introduced in an outdoor garden. Container grown mint does require full sun and regular watering. If the mint is planted in the same container with the other two herbs, the root systems may be taking over and stressing the verbena and thyme. I recommend planting mint in a separate container. TPW


Question: From Noel McCarry in Danbury, CT

I enjoy your column which I read in the Danbury News-Times. Was wondering if you could answer three
When those tall Asiatic lilies lose their flowers, am I supposed to cut back the seedy parts where flowers fell from? 
Also my large dicentra (bleeding hearts) look kind of yellow now. Should I be feeding them, or do they need to be cut back after the blooming season seems to have passed? 
Any ideas for preventing the insects that seem munch up my hosta plants? 
Much thanks, 

Answer:

When the Lilium flowers fade they can be cut just below the spent flower to prevent seed heads from forming. Try not to cut the stem as this is how the bulbs will rebuild for next years blossoms. Lilies are heavy feeders and I recommend feeding with a time released fertilizer such as null this fall as well as next spring to keep lilies strong and healthy.

The bleeding heart (dicentra specabilis) will start to show that it is through for the season by turning yellow or dying back completely. This can happen late in spring or if the plant is happy mid-summer. It is safe to cut the plant back once this starts to occur to clean up the area. Bleeding Heart will leave a large gap in the perennial garden when this happens. I recommend planting the D. luxuriant (a smaller variety) close by as it will keep it's foliage and flowers well into summer and fill in the area where the larger plant dies back for the season.

Treatment for the Hosta depends on what is eating them. Slugs are munchers of the hosta and may never be seen as they will eat in the evening hours. Hand picking the slugs and dropping them in a bucket of war soapy water will get most of them off of the plants. Sprinkling diatomaceous earth  (pool sand) around plants will also deter slugs and other insects.-TPW

Question:
   I have two hydrangea plants growing in a large flowerpot.  They were started from very small plants.  They have grown to be rather large and I was wondering if I could plant them in my yard now? I live in northeast Georgia and the day temperatures are in the mid to high nineties and the night temperatures are in the seventies. Please help me in making this decision as to whether to plant them now or wait until the weather cools down, which will be early October.
Any help and advice will be greatly appreciated.
Sincerely,
Betty Holcombe
Answer:
   I would recommend waiting until late September or when the temps are a bit cooler before you do so so as not to stress out the Hydrangea. Fall is a great time to transplant and the plants will be heading towards the winter season to rest.  

  Dig the hole twice as wide and just deep as the shrub is potted, add some good composted material and water well as you fill in the hole. Check to see if the roots are wound around and loosen carefully before placing in the hole. I do not suggest using any fertilizer for the first year after planting as this can burn new forming roots. Compost is a great amendment and will give the Hydrangea the nutrition it needs for the first year. Water just one time a week for at least 6 weeks to encourage deep rooting. A little more if it is very hot and dry in your area. Too much water will make roots form near the top of the soil and will become stressed during dry times. TPW

Q: My husband and I planted a pom pom pine in our garden last summer, and it has been doing great until just recently it looks like one by one the pom pom’s are turning brown, they look like they are almost dying.

I’ve been looking online for some help or direction with this but no luck until I found your website, I hope you can help me figure out what is wrong.  I certainly would be upset if I lost this fun tree in my yard.

Thanks,

Tanya

A: Many evergreen shrubs and trees have experienced this problem. This could be the result of the warm temperatures in the fall as well as into the winter months. Once the real cold air arrived, the shrubs and trees are not properly prepared for the sudden drop in temperatures.

  Pine, Rhododendron, Azalea and other shrubs are showing symptoms of winter burn from the very dry and cold winds during the winter months. There is not a lot one can do to fix this except to try and trim the dead portions off and wait for the plant to send out new growth.

   Winter protection should be used for shrubs and trees that are in windy areas over the winter once the temperatures have dropped and the ground has frozen. A burlap wrapping with a straw insulation is good for the smaller new plantings. This will help to keep the plant from experiencing winter wind burn.—TPW

Q: I bought several packages of Dicentra today for a new garden space.  They came packaged separately in plastic bags filled with a dry substance that appeared to be some kind of vegetation.  My question is, what are these plants supposed to look like before planting?

When I opened the package, I could only find a tiny piece with roots attached.  There seemed to be no part of a bulb.  I told my wife it looks like something mummified with roots.  Is this what they are supposed to look like?

Gene W. DeVaux

Greenwood, MO

A: Dicentra luxuriant is a smaller form of Bleeding heart and should bloom for a good part of the growing season. It will withstand a bit more sun and is a great addition to a perennial border.

   I have never seen the dicentra shipped in such small pieces, however, if the root stock seems to be dried out I would suggest calling the company for a replacement. Some mail order catalogs ship this way.

   Plant it anyway about 2" with the root lying on its side in a well drained humus rich soil where it will receive bright shade such as at the edge of a woody area or where there is deciduous shade (trees that lose their leaves in the fall). Over a couple of growing seasons this perennial should spread out. The D. luxuriant pairs well with the larger form of Bleeding heart (especially white) when planted about 12"-16" in front.—TPW

Q: Before my brother passed away, he shared what he called a French peony.  They bloom and I am wondering

If they take any special care and should I dead head them when they are done blooming?  They have such a beautiful

fernlike greenery when they are not blooming.

Every spring it is such a beautiful remembrance of my brother and I would be very upset if I did something wrong.

Is there a place I can find info and are they called something other than French peonies that I might find articles under that name?

Thank you so much.

A: This is an herbaceous Peony which means that the plant will die back to the ground each fall and re-sprout new foliage each year. The root system should be no more than 2"-4" inches below the ground for proper blooming and a fresh layer of compost added to the top of the soil each fall for good nutrition. Dead-heading is perfect after the blossoms have faded to the first or second leaf on the stem to keep the foliage nice for the rest of the season. Full sun is best for flowering but the peony will tolerate a partially shaded garden.

   I love the foliage of this plant also and it is my habit to take most of the buds off just before they open to keep the plant from being flattened by rain and use them indoors in a vase. Selective dis-budding will make the flowers much larger too-)

   Your Brother must be so proud of you knowing this is one of his favorite plants and you are taking such good care of it for him. After a few years, you can share root division in the fall with others that loved him too and to keep his memory strong.--TPW

Love your site and column.  Need your help and guidance.
Am a corporate gypsy who has lived and gardened everywhere I have lived (from Chicago to Colorado to Tennessee and the Carolina's, then Austin TX, and most recently Des Moines IA), but have recently moved here to my folks place in Bethel, CT, where I have never gardened (they moved here after I was making my way in the world). 
My mom was the gardener (president of the local garden club many years ago, always active and a constant gardener indoors and out in all seasons).  She passed away 2 and a half years ago, suddenly, without warning or time to really communicate with us about anything, including her beloved gardens.  Currently I am making my home with my dad (not exactly retired but as they say beginning a second career in my early 50's).  Mom was a great gardener - dad dug the holes, turned the soil and provided the basic labor - he appreciated her efforts but....   Long winded way to say, I have a great opportunity as well as a legacy.  Things have, as all good gardens do without a consistent dedicated hand, gone a bit, well, native (read weedy and unkempt).  Am trying to figure out what is what and not destroy anything. 
My main question at this time is about Japonicas (sp?) and pruning.  We have 3, two flanking the front steps (receiving about equal amounts of sun and water) and one to the NW corner.  2 look, well, leggy and twiggy.  They are all the same variety and planted at the same time (the deer eaten arbor vita just gave up and became tall twigs).  The deer do not seem to eat them, so that does not appear to be the problem.  Should I prune or just let them go till spring?  Do you prune these plants (note, I have never had a garden with these plants so I am not familiar)?  Should I feed them?  Do coffee grinds really help?
My last question, should I weed the gardens now or wait till spring to see what is really what?  I am not usually so timid a gardener but....
Thanks so much - if nothing else, I appreciate your patience in reading this far.
Sign me - a constant gardener wannabe
Great Questions!
    First of all, the name japonica can mean a lot of plants because it is used a lot in the naming of plants. There is Lonicera japonica, Azalia japonica and so on. I will need to know just exactly what you have before I can answer your first question. If at all in doubt, wait for the plant or shrub to bloom and take a photograph of it and mark the date of bloom. With many plants and shrubs this can give you lots of clues as when to prune (if at all).
   I would recommend, since you are not sure about this perennial garden, to let it grow for at least one year before making any major changes (you want to preserve your Mother's memory garden). Spring flowering bulbs and spring blooming perennials, Summer blossoms and again in the fall. Take photographs of each season and bloom time for your records. During the winter months, take inventory of all information and decide what works for you and what you would like to move and divide in the early spring.
   Identify weeds (as best as you can) and start by removing them as the year goes by. if you are not sure, let the plant grow until you find out. Try not to let weeds go to seed in the garden so not have an abundance of weeds growing the following year. Many perennials get can get leggy and will perform much better as they receive more light and space to grow.  Some may need to be "tamed" or divided and placed around the yard and others just a pinch or two to keep neat and full.
    In the fall of 2007, you will have a complete picture of what your Mother has tilled before you and will be so happy you have taken the time to make sure her legacy live on. After a season or two the work is much easier with just a pull her and a pinch there. Soon you will be a garden genius! New England is not the easiest place to garden, however, the rewards are wonderful.
   Share your extra divisions with siblings, friends or other family members so they can start a tradition in their homes. Many families have wonderful additions from generous gardeners and these treasures are thoughtful reminders of our past. Good luck and please don't hesitate to send me a photograph of anything you may need to identify. I will be glad to help you.
Question:
Dear Ms Durante:
I recently bought an Ilex verticillata 'Red Sprite' (female) plant.
It is suggested that an Ilex 'Jim Dandy' (male) plant be used to 
pollinate the 'Red Sprite.'
I already have an Ilex x meserveae 'Blue Prince' (male) plant and
as they are in the same genus, I would like to know if the
'Blue Prince' is sufficient to pollinate the 'Red Sprite.'
Thank you.
Dan Hotchkiss
Watertown, CT
Answer:
Hello,
    The Ilex 'Blue Prince' is not a good candidate to pollinate the female 'Red Sprite' because they do not bloom at the same time. Also,  'Blue Prince' is a hybrid that is of a different background." This will prevent the female flowers from producing beautiful red berries we all know and love.
   Ilex 'Jim Dandy' , and Ilex 'Apollo' will be a good companion to the female you have and is capable of producing flowers that will pollinate the 'Red Sprite'." Both of these males bloom at the same time with the 'Jim Dandy' being the most commonly used. One male plant can fertilize up to 5 female plants! Place the smaller male within 30' of a female and you should see berries popping on the Holly bush! 
Question:

Hi:

I have a question that I cannot find an answer to

hope you can help:  I was given two wisteria "beans"wisteria "beans"

or "pods".  They are velvety and seem to have two

beans each. I would like to try growing a seedling.

How can I do this ?  Is it even

Possible in normal household conditions?

I would really appreciate your help.

Linda, New Milford, CT

Answer:

  The Wisteria seed pods should dry out over the winter for a good germination rate. The seeds can overwinter outside and grow by themselves in the ground. This is the easiest way to start the Wisteria from seed. Hopefully the seeds were allowed to mature before they were harvested.

  Indoors, each seed will need to be chipped, however, this is not any easy thing to do because the shell is very tough. Use a serated knife and hold the chunky seed between the thumb and first finger. Carefully saw into the seed until you are sure the shell has been breached. Do this to each seed. Soak the seeds in a two-ply paper towel wet with warm water, fold the seeds into the paper towel and place in a zip lock bag and place in a sunny window. The seeds should germinate in seven to ten days and can be transferred into starter pots until the young plants can be grown outdoors. They will grow quickly In full sun. If the Wisteria are started indoors, have larger pots handy to put the transplants in.  Many bonsai are grown indoors in this fashion, however, it can take up to six years to see the plants send out their first blooms.

Question;

   A Few questions I would like answered, 1 trumpet vine never bloomed, 2 Honeysuckle never bloomed, tried several plants, 3 Clematis plant bloomed once, trimmed and it never bloomed again.

Mrs. Doreen Gilland

Danbury, CT

Answer;

   Hmmm it sounds as if you are having trouble with possibly the amount of sun these plants are receiving. Like many gardeners, too much attention may be the problem. When gardening, it is hard to be patient when one is waiting for a beautiful floral show. A perennial plant can take three or more years to mature and bloom.

  The Honeysuckle vine as well as most Clematis will need at least 6 or more hours of sun per day. You did not mention what kind of Clematis that is growing in the garden and this could be a problem because pruning techniques change with many types. The best way to prune if you are not sure is right after the plant is finished blooming. This way there is a good chance the plant is not setting flower buds for the following years bloom.

Too much fertilizer that is high in nitrogen will make a vine grow full, lush growth, but no flowers so be sure not to fertilize these kind of plants too often or in the case of the trumpet vine, not at all.

Question;

  I have several Hydrangea plants in my yard. Every year I go through the problem of when or how to prune them so that I have a great display the following summer. I hope you can help me since I have received several recommendations.

Angela Gatto

Danbury, CT

Answer;

 Hydrangea shrubs and tree pruning will vary with the type you have growing in your yard. There are the lacecaps that have flowers arranged flat, climbers, which are vines, and mop-head type flowers. The most effective way of pruning most Hydrangea trees and shrubs is to prune them right after the blossoms have faded. This way, the plant has not yet set up to grow new flower buds for the following year.

 Hydrangea paniculata blooms in the late summer, prune when the flowers fade in the fall. If you have a Hydrangea that blooms in the spring, prune right after the blossoms are faded. This technique works well most of the time and only the experience of pruning them yourself will teach you which is best for your hydrangeas.

For larger flowers on the H. paniculata cultivated varieties, cut back in the spring to just a few bud and the flowers will be much larger. This is called “selective pruning” The secret is to know exactly what you are buying when you are shopping for any perennial. Not only the common name, the botanical name so the proper reference material can be found.

Question;

For many years I am an organic gardener. I plant all kinds of vegetables and have an herb garden including some thirty herbs. I am blessed with all kinds of catalogues to buy seeds and plants. But I never could find seeds for lentils. I do not know how they grow, where they grow and why there are no seeds available. I hope you will find the answer. By the way, my plants don’t whisper, they scream when they are thirsty. Best regards,

Reinhilde Krampe

Danbury, CT

Answer;

There are few companies who carry the Lentil seeds because they are imported from Italy, the UK and Germany. It is difficult to import plants and seeds from outside of the United Stated because there is a lot of paperwork involved.

Harvest Moon Farms & Seed Company sports over 30 varieties of Lentil seeds and is based in Union City, Indiana. I spoke with Dusty from the company and they offered to send you a package of their hard to find seeds as well as a catalog to add to your collection. They can be contacted at 1-765-964-3971. Each package of 1-ounce seeds is $2.10.

Lentils are commonly grown as a green manure or a cool season crop to add nitrogen to soil. Lower grades of lentil are used for livestock feed but for us they are an excellent supplement to our diets because it is high in protein. Lentils are used in soups, stews, casseroles, salads and added to cereals.

Plant the seeds in early spring in soil that is sandy, well drained and high in phosphorus/ potassium. The lentil plants do not like a lot of water and do much better when the soil is moist but not soggy.  Since this is a cool season crop, dry conditions or high temperatures during the time when pods are forming will produce a low yield. Lentil seeds will quickly germinate and grow. Good Luck!

Question;

I recently read your column in the News Times about pruning. I have a number of Hibiscuses that I set outside during the warm weather. You mention that they could be pruned now. I need to keep them from growing too tall just so that I can manage to move them. Could you give me a few tips about how to prune them?

Ogden Morse

Redding, CT

Answer;

The pruning I wrote about during the winter months is for shrubs and trees that are grown outdoors here. Tropical Hibiscus plants are a bit different and should be pruned while they are at rest or not forming buds.

 If the plant were to be hit by cold weather, a hard pruning can be tolerated and the hibiscus should recover. These plants seldom need pruning but can take a good trim while they are at a resting stage in the winter. When spring comes and the plants are brought outdoors, new foliage will quickly fill in.

Q;   The area we are talking about is Brookfield, Connecticut. Growing up, my grandparents in the Bronx had a large Fig tree. They went through the ritual of wrapping and covering it every fall. I will never forget the taste of sweet fruit that came from that tree, which now I can only experience when I purchase them.

    Well, I have lived here since 1980 and I never known anyone that owned a fig tree in the vicinity. Actually, just recently I observed what must be a fig tree on Candlewood Lake Road. It is under wraps  (bucket and all) right now. The house family and tree are all fairly new so it remains to be seen what success they may have. I myself have toyed with the idea for many years.

   A friend gave us cuttings, which I rooted in a flowerpot indoors for about 6 moths. This past spring I planted then in strategic places outside and this fall I wrapped them with just tarpaper. What advise can you give me for success? Realistically what am I looking at.

Sincerely,

Phyllis

Brookfield, CT

A;  Growing a Ficus or fig tree here in Connecticut is not impossible, however, they are a lot of work to overwinter. The Ficus is not hardy to our zone 5-6 climate and special care must be taken to keep them alive and may be why you do not see many of them growing here. Probably the most cold hardy fig would be the Ficus carica or the ‘Brown Turkey’ fig which has beautiful spreading habit. The leaves are large three to five lobed and very exotic looking with a lovely silvery bark.

    There are several ways to keep a fig tree happy and healthy, one of which the way your Grandparents took care to protect their beloved tree from being damaged by our cold northeastern winter. Wrapping in burlap and stuffed with a thick layer of straw for insulation is fine if the fig is planted in an area that is protected from drying winds and heavy snow.

    Another technique is to dig around the root area in late fall after the fig has gone dormant and dig a trench right next to where it is planted. Lay the tree down in the ditch and cover it with soil. This will protect the fig through the winter months from drying winds and breakage from heavy snow. Once there is no threat of frost, stand the tree back up and re-plant.

     A safe way to protect your fig tree would be to keep it planted in a large container and bring it indoors in a cool place for the winter. The leaves will fall off and go dormant during this time so a place out of sight will be fine. Selective pruning will keep the plant the right size for your home and patio. Good Luck.

  

 Q;  Good Morning, about 10 years ago I bought a Wisteria up at White Flower Farm and planted it on the front corner of my house. It faces dead south and has been trained to grow across the front eaves of the house. What I would like to know is the proper way to prune and time of year. I am sorry I don’t know the variety; it has light purple panicles and grows like a jungle in the summer.

   Can you offer me any suggestions as to the best way to prune and to insure that I will get flowers the following year?

Bill

New Milford, CT

A; Wisteria is a very fast growing vine and should be kept in check by regular pruning. If you are dealing with a Wisteria vine that has overgrown it’s boundaries, a hard pruning can be done right after it blooms in the late spring and a few times during the summer by cutting back the renegade vine.

   Be sure to get the “suckers” from the bottom of the vine as this can drain a lot of needed energy from the rest of the plant during the growing season. Many times they will grow under mulch and crawl along the ground without being seen.

      Stop pruning in the fall so the plant can develop flower buds. Wisteria can be trained into a tree or climb large areas with ease and the springtime blooms are a magical treat. Don’t worry too much about pruning your Wisteria, done at any time of the year it will recover.

  

Q;  Here is a question no one has been able to answer in the last three to four years. During the spring and summer months, I move my indoor plants outside. The only disadvantage I’ve encountered is when I bring the plants inside in the fall. There are unwanted guests living in the soil such as earwigs, spiders, and those oval dark gray bugs with many small legs (I don’t know their name). Spraying the plant foliage does not work. What do you recommend for ridding these pests who have made their home in the soil?

Cindy

Sherman, CT

A;  Once a houseplant is brought outdoors, the danger of insects is apparent. If your plant is a special or treasured one I would recommend just keeping it indoors for the summer in a healthy place or on a porch. There are a few tricks that I use to get the insects out of the pots before bringing them indoors.

    First, place the potted plants in a neutral area away from plants that have stayed inside, sort of a quarantined area. Let the soil dry out a bit and keep the bottom area open to get the sowbugs and earwigs out of hiding. These insects like dark moist places and the bottom of a pot is a perfect place. Take a plastic bag and put the plant inside of it, (I have a small greenhouse to use just for this purpose), blow air into it so that the plastic is not touching the leaves. A few mothballs in the bag for 24 hours usually will take care of any bugs.

     Since the earwigs and sowbugs are your concern, put a small clay pot with a little bit of grass upside down close to the pot or even under it to keep it off the ground. These bugs will be attracted to a dark moist area and dispose of the pot after the 24 hours have passed. If whiteflies or any other flying insect is a problem, put a piece of double sided tape inside the greenhouse to act as flypaper.

 Q;   We have just cleared a fairly steep (but climbable) hillside, which faces our patio. We would like to plant ground cover that is pleasant to look at, holds back the dirt, smothers weeds and spreads with some speed. The section is about 100 feet wide and about 40 up the hillside. I’d like to rule out the usual and typical green groundcovers like pachysandra. We live in Northwestern Fairfield County Connecticut. A flowering, low plant would be ideal since it is always in our view. Any suggestions would be appreciated.

Jerry

Fairfield, CT

A;   Planting on a hillside can be tricky since erosion and water retention can be a problem for establishing a large planting. If this is a place that will be walked on from time to time, you may want to consider putting shelves or tiers into the embankment.  Since Pachysandra was one of your options, I will assume that the area is in part to full shade.

     Many groundcovers can be beautiful such as the variegated leaves of Lamium (Deadnettle) and bloom in spring with bundles of balloon type flowers of ‘Pink Pewter’, ‘White Nancy’, ‘Purple Dragon’ or yellow ‘Herman’s Pride’. Lamium is also tolerant of poor, dry soils. 

     If you want to really see flowers and foliage, maybe a mass planting of Hemerocallis (Daylilies) will be good and will establish roots quickly to hold the soil. This is not a groundcover, however Hemerocallis do very well on banks and are beautiful through the entire growing season with healthy green foliage and beautiful, large flowers that can be seen from your patio all summer long.

      The H. Stella de Oro will bloom a melon yellow flower all through the season. H. ‘Little Grapette’ is a shorter variety (12 inches), which has beautiful ruffled purple flowers. Daylilies have been bred in some of the most beautiful colors and will bloom in part shady to full sun conditions. --TPW

Have a question? Email me@plantwhisperer.com

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                        Gardening 101

                                               (Danbury New-Times)

 

    The word “hardy” in the garden world means that a plant can withstand a cold winter or adverse growing conditions. Hardiness zones help us to understand what is best suited to our climate and were established by the United States Department of Agriculture (USDA). Most of Connecticut has climate zones 5a, 5b or a warmer zone 6 near the shoreline.

 

Annual, Perennial or Biennial?

 

A “perennial” is a plant that will grow for at least two years; however, we hope to get many more years from them. Most perennials only bloom for a few weeks of time during the growing season but come back every year. It can take two to three seasons for a perennial to mature and flower, so staying power is the key to growing a perennial garden. Initially perennials cost more, but you can save money by going to local plant swaps or organizing a Friendship Garden for a new homeowner by collecting divided perennials from friends and family. Most gardeners are eager to share what they can from their perennial borders so don’t be afraid to ask.

A “biennial” is a plant that takes two seasons to complete its life cycle and flower. Usually the first season is spent growing and the second season flowering or fruiting.  Foxgloves (Digitalis grandiflora), heirloom varieties of Hollyhock (Alcea) and the Silver Dollar (Lunaria annua) plants are biennial. I would suggest letting the heirloom varieties go to seed the first two years by not cutting off the spent flowers.  By the third year you will have enough plants growing to bloom for you each year and enough to share with others!

 An "annual" will complete its entire life cycle in one growing season.(germinate, grow, flower and set seed) These plants generally flower through the summer season and can be added to perennial borders.  The addition of annuals adds more color and fills in empty spaces. Annuals also need to be planted every year. Some heirloom varieties of annuals such as the Portulaca and Cosmos will re-seed themselves for another season if our winter is mild. 

 

Sunlight Requirements

  The next step to understanding what and where to plant is sun requirements. Each plant will have a need for a certain amount of sun or shade per day (which should be listed on the planting stick or label). Full sun is 4-6 hours of sunlight per day. Partial sun or partial shade is at least 4 hours per day of sunlight. Bright shade is an area where a plant will grow on the edge of a woody area that is bright from the sun but sunlight is not directly on it. Many flowering shade plants such as Fuchsia and begonias need this type of light to flower properly. Full shade is just that; no direct sun at any time of the day. If a plant is placed in the right amount of sunlight, it will flower well and thrive. 

 

Soil Improvement

  If you are starting a garden fresh or reviving an overgrown and neglected area, the soil is very important. Begin by adding as much composted material as you can to enrich the garden soil. I would not recommend adding any synthetic fertilizers without a soil test because it may cause an imbalance. Compost and aged manure can be purchased in bags at your local discount stores, garden centers or brought in by the truckload. Aged Cow manure is a great treat for the soil as well as rabbit and horse manure. Manure can often be collected for free or a small fee at many horse and dairy farms. 

  Soils are also improved in time by applying shredded bark mulch every year. The mulch will decompose and turn to compost. This will help the soil from drying out too quickly in the summer, keeps weeds down, and will add a nice finished look to the landscape. Both bark mulch and mulching with recycled grass clippings will get the job done. Good advise is not to mulch too deeply and to keep mulch away from the base of the trees at the trunk as this can cause problems for the tree. Also, understand what you are getting when purchasing mulch. Some hardwood mulch has bark and roots in it that is not healthy for the garden soil. Cedar mulch, Southern Pine bark mulch are a bit more expensive, but are better to use and last longer than the less expensive mulches.

 

Watering Practices

  Watering practices are another basic that many gardeners need to understand, especially for those of us who are limited in their water supply by having a well.  I have found that the toughest perennials in my garden have gone through a nasty two years of drought. Liatris “Kobold” and “Snow Queen”, Echinacea purpurea and “White Swan”, as well as annual Nasturtiums. All of these plants thrived in the hot, dry summer and saved my gardens from the dustbowl of a drought.

  Drought tolerant perennials and annuals are only “drought tolerant” once they have established themselves for at least a year and only if they are trained to be.  Perennials should be watered very well once a week, (a bit more for newly planted perennials) and soaked. If there has been 1" of rain a per week with a rain gauge, a perennial gardens do not need to be watered. This will make the roots grow deep into the ground, in search of moisture, which will save its life in a drought. If you water too often, the roots become very shallow and when the weather is dry, the plant is stressed and may die.

     Too much water can be deadly to plants because they cannot get enough oxygen from soggy soil, especially potted plants.  Annuals will need to be watered a bit more often as they have shallow root systems.

 

                                                    Planting Times

 

  Planting in the spring should be completed before the very hot weather of summer arrives. In many cases, it is too warm for a plant to get started by the time summer is here. If you cannot plant before summer, early to mid autumn is best for most perennials. Roses are best planted in early spring as soon as the ground can be worked.  

  Annuals should be planted in spring. Many New England gardeners like to wait until after the first full moon in May, however, there is never a guarantee as we learned last year with cold temperatures late in May. It is a good idea to keep old blankets on hand to protect your annuals from late frost. The exceptions such as herbaceous Peonies and Tall Bearded Iris should be planted or divided in the early to mid fall as well as spring flowering bulbs like Tulips and Narcissus. This year with the cool temperatures and rainy conditions, many garden centers have gotten off to a slow start. 

  The passion for gardening reaches every walk of life. It may not be for everyone, but with all of the stress in our everyday life, walking out to the garden and digging in to the cool earth releases stress. Take some time out to plant the Roses.

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